The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Hmmm. Bit past its best . New one should be fine.

 

Drove it to the middle of Oxfordshire and cracked open the wine.....

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Finally sorted the creaking/sqeeking.
It was a loose tear wheel hub, this kept loosening the castle nut, which I kept tightening...until yesterday when I figured it out.
Took off castlenut, hub, cleaned, replaced well.... viola quite as a mouse.

A happy drive to work that evening.

 

Forgot to mention we got pulled over by an enthusiastic young member of Thames Valley Police. I was bricking it as I'd had to do an emergency repair on the exhaust last night so thought he was pulling us up for that then twigged MrsNtfc was on the phone when he stopped us. He was sooooo apologetic as myself the driver got out of the left hand side...........

 

Classic

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Finally received my early 123 dissy cap from Autodoc…after three weeks.

They certainly don’t rush

 

In a way, good that he actually pulled someone over for, what he thought, was using a phone while driving

 

Absolutely, to be honest we weren't particularly upset with it and actually had a bit of a laugh with the fella about it. The only annoying thing was he took us down a side road off the A40 and we had to double back about 4 miles down some country roads to rejoin it and retrace our steps.

 

Forgot to put rust converter before I filled a hole in the passenger side step.

 

Its probably fubar'd the splines. Dont expect continued peace. The nut should be holding the whole stack together so nothing moves. If it moves, it starts wearing out.

 

I’m curious; what do you use to tighten the hub nut to 345 N-m?

 

I'm curious how it could keep loosening with a split pin in the castle nut... Unless it was loose enough for something to be moving and wearing.

 

I once used a centre punch and a small hammer coz it was all we'd got. Pin was in...I suspect foul play but that's another story.
Made bloody sure we got to the nearest garage for a bit of tork action though.
We'd driven from the UK down to the Peloponnese but sustained no damage as far as I know. It got tightened, new pin, haven't looked in 8 years.

It doesn't always have to end in a fire ball

 

A Clarke CEW 1000 mains powered 450NM rattle gun. Does it up, will not quite undo it so jump on a 3/4" drive breaker bar that I once bent undoing said nuts.
I covered over the "do not use extensions" sign on the handle with a 2 metre extension tube and jumped on it...
I think it was cheese metal because I was able to bash it back into shape with a 1kg club hammer using the "anvil" on my 6 inch vice.
The castle nuts have stayed done up now for about 6 years, with a split pin in the hole.

 

Sorry Mike, perhaps I should have said ‘what did you use use…’ I was asking @Day how he did it because if it’s done right, it won’t come undone.
I know how and I have the tools to do it and I don't jump on a 3/4" drive breaker bar.

 

I wouldn't use a powerful rattler to do stuff up. You've got no control over the torque

 

A bit of Dremeling to make a Beru cap actually fit a 1st gen 123 distributor, as a spare...

 

Thats the only place I use that tool to do things up, its too much for everything else, but basically the castle nut is all about stretching the axle stub against the stack of spacer and two bearing inner races, so it locks the splined part, so overdoing it a bit is just annoying for the next person to undo the nut.
And actually there is a sort of progression to a rattle gun, it doesnt go all the way to maximum torque on the first hit, but takes quite a few blows to get to the maximum.

I have a Torque Meister for the crank gland nut, vague ideas about converting that to 46mm on the other side so I can do the wheel nuts too, as its designed for the Beetle size, but that will be a tall ask for my welding.

The bending the breaker bar was the first time that the castle nut had been undone since I owned the bus. Its nothing like as tight now.

 

For all you 123 early adopters: the Beru VK 105 will fit, but needs the locating slot Dremeling out by 0.5mm. The later caps (on the right) will also fit if you Dremel the top and bottom ridges down, as per pic.

 

11st = 154lbs. Stand on end of 18" bar = 154 x 1.5= 226lb ft Near enough then bounce gently on bar to next castlation/pin hole. No jumping required. The setting is a minimum.