The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by top banana racing, Aug 27, 2015.

  1. Just paint over with 2 coats of Rustoleum, it'll cover that easily

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    paneuropaul and snotty like this.
  2. Thats sad. Maybe the rust converter didnt dry out fully after you rinsed it off ( if you used the acid type) or residue remained, or you used water based paint that reacted with the metal, maybe the brushed finish meant there were very thin patches in the paint allowing air and dew in there.
    zedders likes this.
  3. Picked at a bulge in the filler about level with the left hand battery tray. Found a hole and an oily(i leave my oil filler jug in there) rusty patch on the metalwork. Cleaned dried, sanded, Kurusted, P40 filler to tie it all together, P38 on top.. primer and a couple of light coats of paint..
    Louise, Day, scrooge95 and 1 other person like this.
  4. Yeah, what @Lasty said, get some Rustoleum on it, it'll be fine :thumbsup:
  5. Generally tinkering but did get around to adjusting the handbrake and the rear shoes.
    Fuel lines seem fine still..


    Handbtake full on and rear wheels on locked.
  6. A fine array of switches you've got there, Tufty.

    Like the bulldog clip holding your dash tray on :thumbsup:
    Day and nicktuft like this.
  7. Each has a function..
    Bulldog clips are for holding map pages open :)
    Merlin Cat, Lasty and snotty like this.
  8. What's the little panel under the green rear heater switch?
  9. B

    Leisure and main battery condition indicator, it's a basic Zig unit.
    Mark Darby and snotty like this.
  10. Having got the first coat of rusto on the driver's door interior yesterday, I had hoped to do the second coat today but it wasn't dry enough - bit cold overnight. So I decided to tackle the last job left before the engine goes in, the exhaust system.
    Started on this Bugpack system I picked up recently for £20.
    Back to metal, VHT Flameproof primer and satin paint.
    So now I have the choice of that one and the Empi twin silencer job that I already had. Both will probably get used in time.
    Then on to the heat exchangers. I'd already stripped and split them, one was packed full of South African red dirt which got cleaned up a bit
    Next job will be to cut the insulation material I got and some mesh to keep it in place.
    Iain McAvoy, Louise, PanZer and 6 others like this.
  11. I may be wrong but the silver looks original and the rusty HX looks to be a repro (less fins)

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  12. Day


    Do the heat exchangers come apart or do you need to split and the re-weld together?
  13. The difference is more stark than that. Check out the header pipes too.
    Louise and nicktuft like this.
  14. Moons

    Moons Moderator

    Do those bad boys have asbestos in them?
  15. It always comes to this.
    Some simply say yes and they had it tested.
    Some say yes and they had it tested but it's not the dangerous type,
    Some say no after testing presumably that meaning they had it tested for the dangerous type only.
    Like corona virus, you makes your own mind up. I replaced mine with plumbers heat shield mat things as I could buy them locally. The ali shield that stops the stuffing collapsing into the fins had chattered through on mine and I just did without it. Possibly not a good move but having restored everything on the bus by then and wanting to hit the road...the bottom half should be ok due to gravity.
    I skinned a pair of repros for the skins and there was nothing inside apart from the blobby fins.
    Louise and Moons like this.
  16. So Saturday I pulled the engine and box. I'm doing this because the rear gearbox mounting was worn and the whole engine and box was moving up and down when it takes up the drive. There was a loud clattering noise on tickover that I took to be something hitting something else because of the play in the mounting. Having got the engine out, it looks to be more serious. I can hold the front pulley and rotate the flywheel about 8 teeth! I haven't pulled it apart yet, but suggestions range from the dowell pins being mullered, to the crank being in two pieces.
    Further more, the top pulley is completely chewed up again. Second time in a year. Probably related to the above.
    Yesterday I opened up the gearbox nose cone to replace the leaky end seal. That at least went as planned, although I did find some broken wire bristles from a wire wheel in there!!!. [​IMG]

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    nicktuft and Louise like this.
  17. There's a thread about this somewhere ... I think @Dicky started it a long time ago.
    Moons likes this.
  18. Must be the light Matt. Both original and heavy as flip!
  19. The outer casing is just crimped all round and a couple of spot welds each end. A bit of careful work with an old screwdriver to ease open the crimps and the spot welds gave way.
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2020
    Day likes this.
  20. What ever it was it's going in the bin. Replacing it with some material I bought from Vitcas. I'll put pics up when I start putting it back together.

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