Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by top banana racing, Aug 27, 2015.
Does your Carter thrum when it's running? Or is that a personal question?
No idea - haven't finished building the bus yet!
Powered mine up today, and not a hint of a click. Back to Europarts on Monday.
Shut the drivers door today mid way through checking out my increasing collection of distributors (one good electronic, one good points, one electronic that may be OK)
So I could leave the key in the run position and use my secret hot wire to start from the engine bay.
And the glass dropped out of the wing mirror. And chipped on the ground but didnt smash.
The plastic surround had finally cracked apart - this was actually all that held it together apart from some muddy gunge..
For now I stuck it back with double sided tape and then silicone round the edge.
Then the fuel pump with removable filter decided to start dribbling petrol - must have bashed it taking out or inserting a distributor.
So I had to take that out, take it apart and re-seat the sealing ring. . No leak again but its a pain.
Drove it up to Halfords, far enough to make sure it was warmed up.
On the way back inadvertently raced a Corsa away from the lights, they suddenly realised they werent going to just be able to beat a camper, it was only when I let off to avoid hitting the back of the queue .. that they shot across in front of me to join the endless queue outside Tescos for Hamble.
Doesn't bode well. Ordered mine by post.
Drove it back again.
It’s a bummer. I’ll have a quick poke around tomorrow. The one thing you do want reliable is the pump relay. Noticed mine appears to have an ‘89 build date on it
Blimey - maybe yours is clockwork
I think the elastic’s gone...
Is there a simple test I can do on mine with a battery and a meter?
It should be a reasonably low resistance , a few ohms, and it should make whirring noises if you briefly spin it up off 12 volts without petrol in it as the motor spins the pump gears.
Dont leave it running dry too long as the petrol cools and lubricates it.
As an added plus there must be a point where residual petrol vapour and air in the pump body is at just the right mix to go pop when the motor brushes arc. Totally safe when full of petrol because petrol cannot burn without oxygen..
Been cleaning the engine ....
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Went out to try and replace a link pin and lower ball joints on the camper yesterday (before smashing little toe into a coffee table). Found out that the jack wasn't working.
Took it apart this morning and worked out that the small piston arrowed had seized - bit of wet n dry and it now works.
It lives @Jack Tatty
Get your battery out, go to a quiet place, stick ground on "31" and +12V on "15". Should hear or feel the relay click then possibly click again as it times out about a second later. Dabbing +12V on "1" should trigger it again.
If you can't hear the relay, set your meter to low ohms (turn the squeaker on if you've got one) and connect it across "30" and "87". Should show 0ohms when the relay's triggered.
Cheers for that. Will report back with findings.
Thanks Mike - I meant the relay. Snotty's now given me instructions
Right. Had a good poke around today, and I may have given you a bum steer on the relay (mine was actually fine, for what it is). As is, the one I mentioned won't do what we want it to. Best to send it back. Sorry .
Tired at looking at Porsche 924 wiring diagrams, but I'll persevere...
Haven't tried triggering it from the ignition yet, mind. As is, looking at the component values, you'd need about 60V on the "1" input to retrigger the thing.
@77 Westy - is the 321 906 059c the only relay you use on your fuel pump?
<edit> Told a lie...about 35V.
Actually, don't send it back yet. It may well work to drive the pump (but no initial priming pulse).
My brain's gone down the rabbit hole. Ignore everything I say. Back shortly
Yes, just the one relay but since fitting the 123 distributor it no longer primes, the pump starts as soon as the engine cranks and stops about a second after the engine stops.
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