No go.. give up.! I Going to seek professional help before I burn out another starter... I I haven't already Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
It's a right pain, gone through this twice myself with both engine builds. You build it, it looks lovely. But then it won't start and one by one every single ancillary breaks or is found to be faulty (coil, dizzy, plug lead, carb, fuel pump, starter, battery, earth points, plug order, TDC markings). Wonder how the old engine ran at all. Before you know if you've spent more time and money trying to start it than you did building it. Your loving family start to make noises about 'professionals' and 'thought you knew what you were doing' and 'why are standing out in the rain crying'...... I'd dribble a teaspoon of fuel down each carb throat, open the throttle wide and try and start it. If it coughs and spits then the carbs are not delivering enough fuel. If it doesn't try and cough then your spark is too weak or at the wrong time. What does it do when you try and start it? Does it turn slowly then kind of lock up, does it just spin, or does it cough and splutter? Don't loose faith!!
Never seen it it run.... total rebuild of everything including carbs...More of spin and lock up. Took carbs off emptied them and tried with just easystart in case it's flooding... after the petroly oil. Just to see if I could get a cough but nothing....too weak a spark because of hard turnover is my best guess but full battery and jump leads to car doesn't get it going. It's only a spark and fuel ... how hard can it be? Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Can we assume the engine turned freely before you fitted the barrels and pistons? If yes I'd persevere with a big battery.
Yes from what I remember.. was fine till then. Tried taking plugs out and a squirt of wd40 in there and turn by hand for a while.. quieter now but still quite hard. Any harm in turning the engine on its side to flood the behind the rings with oil while I turn it over? Starter is smoking now it's trying that hard at the tops of stroke.. or it could be bottoms I suppose as there will be a pair at each end! Thought it might be because the spacer has moved from the head to the bottom of the barrel? Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Separate the starting and ignition circuits. With a fresh battery on take the king lead off and leave it near earth. Turn motor over by hand and see how it sparks. Is it a nice fat blue spark that jumps with a satisfying crack? Does it spark when you expect it to relative to tdc? T25 I ended up cheating and put 24v through starter for short bursts, with 12v ignition curcuit set up separately. Gave it the kick it needed to spin quickly for that first ring scraping run up. A bit of oil down the plug holes seemed to ease it a bit as well.
Battery is direct, earth strap to frame, live to starter with battery lead...with booster cables to "top up" from running car Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
... might get our M&E contractors onto it... How many cranking amps can I put through a starter and not fry it? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Dunno. Only ever done it when jump starting a dumper off the digger battery. Spins it up a treat . lol
What did you set the ring gaps to? PS. I wouldn’t be trying to start that engine until I found why it is so tight to turn.
I guess only you know how it went together .. And how tight everything was or wasn't .. I'd be turning it over without the plugs just to pump the oil pressure up
Didn't do any setting! .. measured clearances to sides in piston grooves and closing gaps when in cylinder.. can't find note but was about Bentley tolerance Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Unfortunately I only know how tight this is not how tight it should be so how much tighter than others is a guess... But I feel it's tighter than it should be... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Had a 180 degree out moment from looking at photos at swapping distributors over but just forced spring off rocker... that was hard too with heat exchanger in the way. But inlet to no 1 definatetly pops in and out on the run up to rotor pointing to no1 lead. . Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
