I believe you cannot time an electronic module statically. Accuspark definitely needs engine to be turning. Use points to set up initially on first start up then when you know it runs swap to electronic module at a later date.
Cheers did that... and then lost the trigger ring... doh.. Power spark people nice and are sending me a new one gratis bless em.. nice customer service is still out there... so I bought a strobe off em too! Points look to be working at the right time but spark still weak. Refurbished starter back next week hopefully keeps a bit more juice running to the sparky side of things and get a better bigger spark .. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
The powerspark one did ... just wasn't confident enough in how it was working to know timing was right.... difficult to tell what's not working when in could be a little of everything... Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
You could be 45 degs out? If you have a vac can it should be approx square to the engine, not at 45 degs.
It's here at the moment but was going to start again checking tappets , timing , carbs Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
I seem to remember if you have the can on the right as you have, it stops you getting at the m8 nut holding the clamp to the block. Hence mine's about 90 degs anticlockwise from yours, which is just a matter of spinning the distributor 90 anticlockwise the oving leads one place clockwise, if you wanted to. I'll take a pic next time I'm passing.
Any pics gratefully accepted .. Clamp nut ok here but condenser for points and take off for oil pressure sensor / switch clash a bit... obviously just to make it awkward... tried lots of position variations to allow a bit of adjustment and no clashes... but always something in the way!... shouldn't be an issue when I get electronic ignition back on! .... hopefully Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Here's my powerspark svda - spun round from yours. Although the vacuum unit is spun one way and the cables the other. I know when I fitted it it took ages to get started including a few huge gunshot loud backfires since it was lined up different to the 009 I took off. I remember I had to put the 009 back on to reassure myself I hadn't killed something, but eventually got it going. At tdc the rotor should be pointing to number 1 plug (give or take a few degrees)
Ta..will check again later.. rain stops play now engine is on drive undercover.. no room to keep flat in garage now it's got oil in I can't spin it vertical to tuck in the corner! yep rotor aims at no1.. ish...dizzy can be any way of 4 posts at that point tough as long as the leads go to right plug I suppose... except things get in the way of the vacuum pot or condenser. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
So I'm guessing from staring at it for a while.. that's like @zedders 90 anticlockwise...my condenser will hit the take off for oil pressure gauge. Can the condenser just hang off the dizzy for a while.. will be swapping back to electronic once I get it running... hopefully Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
... also didn't know those wires could run through that little whole to tidy them up!.. nice.. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I thought the rotor arm could only go in one way (could easily be wrong), which would limit which plug wires go where. Could you be 180 degree out and you've got tdc of the exhaust stroke on number 1? At least you can tidy up your one wire through the the hole in the block now - although you seem a few wires down on me. Good luck! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I'm only trying to get it going on the drive at the mo... plenty more wires around the noisy cupboard! Rotor arm shaft will only go in one way, and the arm direction fixed to that but body of distributor doesn't really care which way it's put around it as long as there's a wire there for the arm to hit at the right time going to the right pot. Pretty sure I got the drive gear in right...valves all seem to be doing what there supposed to be doing at that point in the engine cycle. . Looked while setting the tappets going backwards 1, 2, 3, 4.. but there's always that seed of doubt after reading other build threads! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
This is how mine is, though if your drive is fitted a tooth out either way from mine I guess this will be no help.
Please check you have the leads on in the right order. Sometimes the engine gets very hard to start because you are firing the mixture at the wrong point making it hard to compress already part burnt fuel. When it almost starts you will be greeted with a massive backfire in this state. You also can flood it while you go past the point where you got the timing right and then off into the wilderness again before the fuel evaporates. .. Static timing accuspark needs a wiggle of the distributor around the firing point so the idea of using points is a good idea to get it going. Make sure the condensor body is grounded or your spark will be weak.
Cheers all.. nearly there I think... Went through a clean start again.. tappets right.. distributor re installed... after a bit of modding Condenser clashes with tinware right when you don't want it to! Took it off and temporarily fixed out of the way and checked it's earthed.. timing process run through again. Top tip, keep an eye on the HT running from the coil when your leaning over twisting the carb if you've pulled it from the cap.... gives you a clear indication you've broken the contacts though ...quite a sharp one! Got a bit too late to try starting after checking oil level and noticing a strong petrol smell... pump gone then! It'll have to go gravity fed direct to carbs for testing. New oil in, new idle solenoid installed, refurbished starter fitted, strobe light on starter turnover looked good..battery back on charge... tonight we go again! Hopefully I'll be posting a thanks to you all again later. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
