I see what you mean, I thought you were running out of adjustment at the other end. Is the pushrod bent? Is this the one that lost it's shaft nut?
No that was 4. This is 1. Not had an issue over here. Should I take the pushrod out and have a butch?
yes. If not bent, assuming you managed to set no.3 inlet valve which shares the same cam lobe, I'd guess the follower has disintegrated. Also, this is 1600 engine, I don't think they had hydraulic followers?@davidoft might know...
Whatever the cause, you've lost about 5-6mm somewhere and the valve stem is in the right place... and you're taking advice from me?
Thought you were a genius. I will look at the pushrod and see what's up. If I take two out and compare, that might indicate any issues might it not.
It will narrow it down to something inside the engine if rod is ok. You have no other choice but to look.
Ok the rods look fine. So it must be a dodgy hydraulic follower from what i know, but then i know little.
A Wasserboxer is a wierd thing isn't it? A sort of beefed up watercooled T1 with T4 hydro followers and a T4 flywheel. Looks like a major job if the follower is to blame.
Inside the lifter is a spring holding up a ball bearing that allows you to set the tappets. When running, oil pressure takes over from the spring. Hope that's some help. Your problem is inside the engine. Unlike a T4 you can't get the lifters out I think) without splitting the case, you certainly can't get the pushrod tubes out without removing the heads which will open the can of worms that it coroded head studs...
i could sacrifice the pushrod tubes and then refit telescopic ones, if that meant not taking the heads off. But if it is a split the case job, am i not better off putting a different engine in and selling this one? I wonder if a 2.1 injection from another t25 would work? I have been offered a couple in the last week, not sure on pricing. But at the same time if i am taking engine out anyway should i just fix it? I already have two engines in the workshop in various states of assembly, not sure a third would be a good thing, i am swamped with work in the cabinetry shop!!!
Just been told on 8090 that you can do exactly what I said. You can pull the hydraulic lifter out with a valve grinding tool.
I would of thought that a collapsed lifter would not make any difference to a low compression reading as the valve will be shut Looking at the picture the valve stem is lower than the other witch would indicate a valve issue
good luck matey. Should be doable. suppose once its out you should have an idea whats going on! (new lifter if your lucky)
