Stripdown of paneuropaul's engine

At least you didn’t say expert. The only time my bus goes anywhere near a ‘professional’ is for the CT (MOT) every 5 years.

But I guess you weren’t asking me.

 

No I wasn't.....
Just concerned that people who have carb changes make sure they are properly set up and not pinching.
.

 

I had mine set up on a rolling road by an expert at wilshers garage. So not carb related.

 

you can only really say that with any confidence if you had a wideband installed while you were foot to the floor 90mph. did you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Eh?

 

exactly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

No I'm serious. You do a five hour stint on a French motorway with a lean throat on 36 dells and you'll be lucky not to loose an exhaust valve guide. It's not like a pootle down to Newquay.

 

Where did the 90mph come from?

 

Engine Teardown of Razzyh 2056 Type 4 engine
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...-4-engine.75938/&share_type=t&link_source=app

post #140

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That wasn’t the cause of my issue.

I had 3 or 4 engine rebuilds, near enough all had the same problem, first engine seemed fine, got me to south of France and back, the main problem was a oil leak (and over heating!), as a friend following said, ‘it was like I was giving him an oily rag resto’. Paul came to fix to find it was leaking at the case half. So off it went again, after that each time the engine was ‘rebuilt’ it would only last a handful of miles before it sounded like a bag of nails.

Fact is, it seems, no one can be quite sure why these engines over heat and then ‘give up’.

 

Thanks for the link, I was having a TLB break at that time and completely missed that thread.

Looking oil related isn't it? At first too much pressure bypassing the cooler until the bearings are so knackered there isn't enough pressure. Maybe at one point in the rapid disintegration it all balanced out, but by then there was a pile of debris circulating too.
Big vote here for a "small" oil pump i.e. stock unless you're drag racing and run loose bearings deliberately and other mods to increase the flow. High pressure is never the aim.

A common factor, just looking at pics on both threads, the rockers look rather dry. Was he doing something that reduced flow to the heads?

@77 Westy I'm ignorant here, when the oil pressure is high, is the oil filter also cut out of the circuit as well as the cooler?

 

Funny you mention oil, I was just re-reading the strip down of my engine and 77 westy mentions oil pump.


My engine thread that Patrick mentions

The oil pump was a good fit to the case. The pump was 30mm. The only mod needed to the pump is a little sanding to clear the studs. Other than that I don't know what issues you get.

And then 77 westy replies

A 30mm pump is far too large. The standard 24mm is best, 26mm if an external oil cooler is fitted. A larger pump results in overpressure at start-up and overheating.

So I guess what’s the oil pump like on this engine.

Also, I’m not sure why my oil pump was replaced, as far as i knew, it was fine and replaced for the sake of it.

 

@PeaSoup what happened to your engine, was it sold with your van and is the person who purchased it on TLB?

 

You know what? I think a lot of builders fit a new pump to
a) save the time it takes to properly assess the original one and
b) a lot of customers take false assurance from seeing a new pump on the parts list - it could look penny pinching to reuse the original.
My personal experience? I've not seen or heard of these excellent pumps failing to provide pressure and after discussing with Rob he agreed though he did have his stash apart to assess and fitted the best one, which just happened to be the one in the donor engine it was built on where nothing was appreciably worn anyway. I could have just fitted that 2l and carried on as it turned out, but you can't know that without stripping it down and inspecting everything.

 

No, what the engine can’t swallow is sent directly back to the sump, or pump suction depending on the age of the crankcase. The filter isn’t bypassed unless the DP is high and the relief valve in the adaptor lifts.

 

Sorry, only just getting to this thread - a bit behind as have been away!

My engine was a late 2 litre with hydraulic lifters.

I wanted to keep my FI and didn't want to have to change anything for a different size engine and so I asked for the rebuild to be kept completely standard.

Stuff that I know of that was done:

- Line bore crankcase to 0.5mm oversize
- Regrind crank to 0.25mm undersize
-Deglaze/hone barrels
-Rebuild cylinder heads with new valves/guides where needed - this included needing 2 valve seats
-New Piston Rings
-New Oil Pump
-New Oil Cooler

The engine went for the rebuild in March 2014. I got it back "rebuilt" in March 2015.

The issues I had after the rebuild were overheating (would get to 120 degrees from 15 minutes of idling) and very low oil pressure - which was the cause, and which the effect I never found out!

Between March 2015 and October 2017 it went back 3 times - first time for 4 months, second time 3 months, third time just over a month.

A lot of time between March 2015 and October 2017 was lost by me as I hurt my back twice and was very busy with work and so had long periods where I wasn't able to put engine back in or take it out, or find time to work on it - Paul was waiting on me to try things just as much as I was waiting for him!

One of the first things I discovered was that even though I had asked for a "standard" build he initially left out the barrel spaces and thus raised the CR slightly - putting those back in was his first try at resolving the overheating. Other things he tried was an extended sump plate to allow for more oil to hopefully give higher oil pressure, and and an oil pressure relief valve insert thing that supposedly fixes issues with worn PVR seats. I know that on two of the occasions it went back he did complete strip/rebuilds to check everything.

One time it came back making really bad noises from one cylinder - he had somehow managed to fit the wrong size piston rings on one cylinder.

After the third time back with him and it still overheating he said he had no ideas what to do next and so we came to an agreement on a partial refund.

To Paul's credit he kept talking to me the whole time, and was always willing to take it back and look again. He was as frustrated as I was. The only annoying thing was that due to him being so busy he never kept to any time scales he gave.

Once he gave up I tried various things, including a top end strip down/rebuild myself, but quite frankly by that point I was totally demoralised and had lost interest in the van and just wanted rid - so sold it.

I sold it to a guy from France who by trade was a VW engine builder and so he was going to build a new engine for it himself. I know he got it back to France OK - he purchased it in the summer, but waited until December to collect it when it was much colder to help with the overheating issue when driving it back to France - but I've not heard anything since!

So, I never found out what was wrong.

My remaining suspicion was that the case line bore had been done slightly out of alignment which caused too much friction on the crank - but who knows!

The suspicion I have now is the replacement oil pump not being up to the job.

 

Probably air-cooled engines have a limited use..
Not really suitable for pushing a van full of people and gear around..
No car manufacturers thought they were a great idea... no air-cooled cars are made today..

 

Lots of motorcycles though

 

I suppose I will be beaten to death for replying to a post now

 

You can't regulate the temperature as tightly on an air cooled engine as you can on water cooled engine. The result? As I understand things, it's much harder to meet emissions regulations as emissions vary with temp. Even Porsche gave up trying in the 90s.