Stripdown of paneuropaul's engine

So could I, for all I know.

But what if anything did the correspondence say...

 

Steve, ages ago you asked me about compression ratio in my 2110cc type one engine bus.

I posted up what my engine builder had told me.
Mr Weeding said you could go much higher that that figure.
I then posted information up from John Maher Racings Performance guide and from Gene Berg (i think), which matched what my engine builder had said.
Mr Weeding said it was dated and incorrect and you could go much higher on compression ratio.
https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/which-engine-spec-to-rebuild-to.52108/page-3#post-929721

Later when various Mr Weeding engines had issues I wondered if it was 'too high compression ratio'..... however I V know little about VW engines and technical matters!
I'm good at taking advice from the right people though (ones who know there stuff) rather than those who think they know more than they actually do.

 

Nothing to hide, I said "it's broken, can you fix it"? I got it back and a "it was 2.5k" I didn't get a bill as such, I had an email with lots of words on it, they meant little to me. He told me what he'd done, correction he told me stuff whether he did it or not is anyone's guess.

 

Awaiting the autopsy it's like Quincy.

 

(Paul.. I think the indications were on your 2110 that it had fairly normal compression on the one good cylinder relative to other Type 1 engines , about 117PSI , so I dont know the relationship to CR but if other engines are "normal" then so was yours. I dont think compression was a killer for you, more that if you look at that thread on the Samba, the Mofoco performance heads seem sometimes to have been "machined by monkeys" .. )

It was mystifying watching those Type 4's at TE all idling and warming up to 100C, when you would expect maybe 80C on a normal engine.

 

Bit of oil in one of the barrels, Rockers from 3 and 4, head from 1 and 2, pushrod tubes well sealed in, they came out in situ when the head came off. Father in law took pics for me.

 

Thanks for getting your F-I-L to take the pics.

Dished pistons so it won't be crazy high. Chambers look unworked size-wise. Inlet valve on the right one looks a bit sunken, probably just the photo. All the adjusters screwed so far though the rockers make it look like the pushrods are a bit short/rocker geo not great but that wouldn't cause it to overheat. Could be from spacers under the barrels to get the CR down but they'd have to be pretty thick... or has it got elephants feet adjusters?

Looking pretty tidy so far TBH.

 

What i was posting ages ago about what compression ratios engines should be built at, is completely unrelated to what compression psi the cylinders on my engine had recently.

My low compression on number 2 cylinder was likely caused by a loose intake seat meaning the valve wouldn't open and close properly.

I've edited my earlier post. In this thread im purely referring to Mr Weeding built engines

 

Ah, well, you might not think so but there is correlation and even calculators between cranking psi, inlet valve closing point and CR. I found one ages ago before I knew what my CR was and it got it almost exactly right. Pretty useful as it takes the cam into consideration.

Whatever calculated static CR and cam, EVERYONE who uses the same fuel is heading for the same dynamic CR whether they have 7.5:1 static and a stock cam or 10:1 and a racey one. Off the top of my head it's 6.5:1 or something, it's low anyway compared to the bragging rights numbers!

 

I was just trying to point out what i was saying about compression ratio was meant for this thread and this engine strip down discussion.

Mike seemed to think what i said about compression ratio was meant in relation to my engine situation, which it wasn't.

I shouldn't have bothered posting anything, as its just been a distraction to this engine strip down thread !

 

It's all good discussion while Mick hobbles about with his bad back and gave me the chance to point out that CR and cranking psi are (perhaps surprisingly) related in a calculatable way.

 

Don't worry about it @paulcalf Just a oh look whats inside, post what ya like

 

For me, the bigger mystery was how damn quickly they got up to those temps just ticking over. They were getting there in 5-10 minutes where 20 minutes hardish driving wouldn't warm mine up to 80 degs. Idling it would take 20 minutes to even register a temp on the oil gauge.

 

We all measure temps with different sensors, in different places with different gauges, so often not like for like.

I use a VDO gauge and dipstick sender that measures temperature in the sump.
When tested against a normal thermometer in boiling water it was 5C out.

This should be in a separate thread: Currently it has gone pear shaped and reads 100c even when it isn't connected to the sender.
It still reads 100c when the wire from the gauge to the sender is removed, so it doesn't look like its even a wiring fault!
New gauge ordered, which will probably be different 'readings' to the last gauge!

 

It's not that, with no idea of any readings just getting near the back of these buses was like standing in front of a space heater. I remember (I think Peasoup's) I was drawn to it while walking past by the excess unusual blast of hot air. You wouldn't have wanted to work on it while it was running it was pumping out so much heat, it was unusual.

 

Back on it. For as long as my back holds up. Oil pump pushes in and out too easy. Schadek 26mm. Just looks to have been sealed in.

 

What's the backlash on that Mick. I had a selection of 3 Schadeks when we finally put together the WBX and made one good one out of the 3 new ones! It's how they are out of the box sadly, with variable clearance betwew the gears. Who made the better ones? is it CB, I can't remember, but that's an area I'd want the best available tbh.

 

That is a well know type-4 engine building problem? An aftermarket pump sized to fit snugly in a type-4 case doesn't exist AFAIK.

 

Any ID marks on the cam?