Painting tips

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by zedders, Nov 10, 2011.

  1. Colours and paint coats (qty).
    If you like painting and want to put on lots of coats, pick yellow or jaffa. These colours always seem to need extra coats to get the right colour as they're a bit wishy-washy... I think I'll paint my bus green. :thinking:
    nicktuft likes this.
  2. it was 3 litres of mango and 3 litres of anthracite. thats before thinning... to me that sounds like a fair amount of paint but I didnt want it too thin incase I wet sanded and buffed
  3. It sounds like a lot of paint, but it isn't... you'll need 7/8l of 2k colour to do a full inside and out shoot on a camper... So half as much again in hardener, then there is the primer, and metallic and clear is another headache altogether :lol:
  4. I should also mention (and cant beleive I forgot to count it in) that Ive still got to do the doors and engine lid so that's going to munch up the remaining 2 litres of paint in each colour. Looking like I'll only just have enough
  5. If you have 5 litres of cellulose and add 50% thinners does that give you 10 litres of paint? or just 5 thinned down?
  6. So far Ive used 6litres of unthinned paint. it's then thinned down 50/50 giving 12litres of "stuff"
    I have about 2litres left so that should give 4litres of "stuff". Obviously, I'm not a painter by trade lol
    10litres of "stuff"should cover it :)
  7. Thanks, I have 5 litres to do the top and inside LD90 white and will be getting some blue for the lower so looks like i will be ok :thumbsup:
  8. That gives you 10l of spray-able material ;)
  9. Thanks all it looks like i may have enough paint :thumbsup:
  10. So... bare metal then filler then primer or bare metal primer then filler?;)
  11. I would fill then etch primer then high build primer, if you primer then filled you would sand off the surrounding primer and have to re do it:confused: I'm no expert but have done a lot of sanding this year!
  12. And when to seam seal panel joins? ;)
  13. Saw some tinterweb testing on this a while back and the guys conclusion after peel tests and hammer tests was filler then primer if you've got as far as bare metal..
    1973daisey and Coco like this.
  14. It's all so complicated.
  15. Not really, but there are so many people with their own way of doing it if you don't already have your own way of doing it there is a lot of conflicting info out there.
    Back to the seam sealing panel joins (whole panels - the original seams).
    I see buses in the resto section where the owner has seam sealed it then sent it to the paintshop. Without a doubt the painter would then dig it all back out if he was worth his salt. The reason being that you don't want a thick layer of high build primer and then top coat over the seam sealer because it'll be prone to cracking - the thicker the paint, the quicker it will crack. Also it's making rubbing the paint down difficult and stopping primer getting as far as possible up your crack (between panels - where really there shouldn't be a gap at all).
    So - prime, flat back, when ready to top coat, seam seal just prior. 2 pack paint sticks like something to a something, not a problem to go straight over the sealer. :hattip:
    womball and Deefer66 like this.
  16. .. and if it's brushable seam sealer use an artist brush dipped in thinners to smooth it out...
    womball, Coco, nicktuft and 1 other person like this.
  17. Coco likes this.
  18. Can primer be left for any time before the final coat is applied or is it porous as I have read elsewhere?
  19. I think most epoxy ones set and are then not porus ones with a thinner that evaporates tend to be porus.. You can apply next coat either within a certain window for wet on wet paint.. Or wait for a minimum time for an initial cure to put next coat which may or may not need rubbing down first.. See paint data sheets from off of tinterweb.:thumbsup:
    Coco likes this.
  20. You've got it, epoxy isn't porus, all other primers are!! :thumbsup:
    Coco likes this.

Share This Page