Painting tips

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Zed, Nov 10, 2011.

  1. Kruger

    Kruger Sponsor

    I managed to spray Jotun 87 epoxy primer by thinning it down, and using a large fluid cap (2.0) always used 2-3 good coats to get some build to it, or brushed it in where necessary, I figured it must be sprayed in industrial applications, and without some thinning its near impossible to mix or paint with a brush.

    Time will tell, but my initial impressions are good, one point to note is it can slightly react if using a regular automotive 2k primer (mipa) over the top, but a flat back and reapplication of primer seems to have worked ok.
     
    Majorhangover likes this.
  2. Bear in mind (what i was told) that thinning it anymore than 20% drastically reduces its corrosion protection. When used in industrial applications they do not need to thin it, as they use airless sprayers. When it reacted did you spray it wet on wet? and how much thinners did you use in the mipa primer?
     
  3. Kruger

    Kruger Sponsor

    I'm hoping it'll be ok, as dont think it needed thinning by 20%, (maybe only 10% as per mixing normal 2k primer) remember it thinning down quite well considering how thick it was to start with, also I'd lightly etched prior to using the primer, but I'll be keeping an eye for any rust outbreaks, as I've used it all underneath, and within the window frames where water always collects.

    The reaction may have been due to painting wet on wet, being honest I cant remember!
     
  4. Glad it worked ok for you and i agree 2-3 coats should be plenty corrosion protection (even if over thinned) especialy if vehicle is garaged. With me i like to spray primers like i'm spraying top coat, ie get it to lay down nice and smooth with minimal orange peel, as it makes life alot easier when flatting the primer back for top coat. I personally could not get the 87 epoxy to spray nice even with 20% thinners hence the reason i use lechler epoxy as it lays down like glass with no thinners. I would use the jotun 87 everywhere if it sprayed as nice as the lechler29107 as i think the 87 is a much tougher primer.
     
    paradox likes this.
  5. Wish I had read this earlier. As my engine is out I took the opportunity to take the tinware, degrease it & spray it with zinc 182 in prep for me spraying it with matt black heat resistant paint tomoro.
    Got a bit over excited & impatient and sprayed too much on so some of it ran.
    looks pretty decent tho. Much better than before.

    I want to wash and paint the engine bay on Saturday morning. Should I source the colour of the van or spray it black???
    Neil
     
  6. I'd go van colour or white
     
    75swampy and paradox like this.
  7. Engine bays are depressing at the best of times when there painted black you just avoid looking in there
     
    Coco and 75swampy like this.
  8. Colour of the van is the only option.
     
    75swampy likes this.
  9. You'd be amazed at the amount of restored/resprayed vans that don't get the same treatment as the outside of the van... Always baffles me that one!!
     
  10. Can anyone recomend a good supplier for paint, I have a 1976 combi in pale blue, as it was imported from Aus. no one can mix a paint from the reg no. As far as I am aware it is an original VW colour. Can I get a colour chart any where on line ???
     
  11. Your best bet is to find a local auto paint supplier that you can visit yourself. They will be able to go through archives and if the worst comes to the worst there will always be a veteran behind the counter who can match by eye. Always good if there's a bit of your van you can take off and put on the counter.

    Somewhere like this place near me - http://www.leonardbrooks.demon.co.uk/car-paint-motorcycle.html
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014
  12. Thanks for the advice - Jon
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Look on the panels behind the front seats, there should be a sticker with the paint code.
     
  14. Hi paint guru's question:
    How long should I leave freshly painted celly before I flat out the imperfections?

    Cheers in advance.
     
  15. @zed @Paul Weeding @Kruger alright guys could anyone advise me regarding this ^^^

    Thanks chaps
     
  16. cellulose... 6 weeks I would say...you have to remember that the solvent soaks in on celly, so all the previous coats of celly will go soft...

    If the ambient temp is cooler, then you'll have to leave it longer :)
     
  17. Cheers Paul thought it may be a while, nice one :thumbsup:
     
    Paul Weeding likes this.
  18. Does the final tint of the top coat depend on the colour of the primer. I remember buying cans from halfords years ago and it saying on the can what colour primer to use. Reason I ask is that I've just painted a rear wing on a Morris Minor and used grey primer and smoke grey top coat and it is a shade darker than the rest. The original paint is 2k ICI and so is the new stuff. Could using a white primer lighten it up or should it not matter? Thanks
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  19. Does the final tint of the top coat depend on the colour of the primer. I remember buying cans from halfords years ago and it saying on the can what colour primer to use. Reason I ask is that I've just painted a rear wing on a Morris Minor and used grey primer and smoke grey top coat and it is a shade darker than the rest. The original paint is 2k ICI and so is the new stuff. Could using a white primer lighten it up or should it not matter?
     
  20. Does the final tint of the top coat depend on the colour of the primer. I remember buying cans from halfords years ago and it saying on the can what colour primer to use. Reason I ask is that I've just painted a rear wing on a Morris Minor and used grey primer and smoke grey top coat and it is a shade darker than the rest. The original paint is 2k ICI and so is the new stuff. Could using a white primer lighten it up or should it not matter?
     
  21. it should be on the VIN plate
     

Share This Page