If they're stock steels I'd highly recommend getting them powder coated. Costs more but lasts forever and looks great.
You take the wheels to a powder coat company. They'll shot blast them, apply a powder primer coat then apply the powder top coat. Average price is £25-30/wheel. Well worth it IMO.
I think paint is better my powder coated wheels have small holes in the bead where the coat didn't quite reach
Thought I would resurrect this thread to ask you paint gurus a question.... I'm looking at rattle caning a few of my panels( tailgate and door) to tidy them up until I can afford a respray. I have used base coat and lacquer before but was looking at doing it in one hit, so would it be better to use celly or 2k rattles ?
I've used 2k rattle cans from a paint suppliers, i got a reasonable finish with it I dont know what the health and safety rules are with it though
When I had my celly mixed for the respray I got them to do me half a dozen spray cans at the same time. It looks good where I've used it and the colour obviously is spot on.
What's the celly come out like? I've heard it's quite a soft paint. If I go down this route do you use normal primer?
Oh I dunno really, it looks ok and apart from where rust has pushed it off it looks proper. I haven't even flattened it after it was sprayed and that was a few years ago now.
Got myself a straight line sander off fleabay but standard sheets are too short. Anyone know of a supply of cut sheets or rolls in various grits?
Most block lengths for automotive use are 130/198/396 3M purple series paper is worth the extra if you can justify it, it lasts about 3x longer than any of the others. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-HOOKIT..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4d14f09c0b
We've just started to do the inside today so glad I've seen this thread!!!! we'd used newspaper so will change that tomorrow,,we also used too much 2K primer I'm sure as we only did that one side and the full can had gone
Also most (if not all) 2k epoxy primers are iso free, so 2k epoxy over bare metal followed by cellulose primer and top coat if you want to stay iso free. The epoxy primer over bare metal is the most important stage, a lot of body shops don't use epoxy primer as its just another added expense as they will probably never see the vehicle again and the customer won't know. Jotun 87 epoxy is one of the best epoxy primers out there, but its very thick so can only be applied by brush(or airless spray) so its ideal for underneath , jotun also do another thinner version(jotun 80) which ive been told is thin enough to be sprayed(with conventional spraygun). For those who don't know jotun 87 epoxy is used on most major ships, oil rigs, bridges etc.. with a service interval of around 10-15 years! at sea!! so its a well tried and tested paint that stops rust. Also theres a paint called rust buster which is believed to be jotun paint rebadged for double the price. For the outer body i use lechler epoxy primer (lechler 29107) which is a automotive primer so can be sprayed with a conventional spray gun (unlike jotun87) i have yet to try the jotun 80 , but if it sprays nice i will be switching to using that instead of the lechler.
