Over to the dark side I go

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by lowie, Jun 22, 2021.

  1. Hi all
    I am going subaru after a few years of threatening to then waiting then threatening too its finally happening
    Engine and loom are sorted I know where I am getting my adapter plate from I know what rad pack I am getting
    I know what exhaust I need

    I am now just looking at little bits
    First little problem is the fuel return
    As mine is a type4 1800 twin carb I don't
    Have one I don't really want to swap the tank for fi one as it is only a 6 or so years old
    It's one of them funny ones with the outlet then just above that there a 22mm bolt head does anyone know if I can get
    A some sort of outlet adapter for this

    Attached Files:

    Lasty, Kruger and pkrboo like this.
  2. Good luck with the conversion @lowie, I guess not keeping up with @MorkC68 pushed you over to the dark side ;)
    MorkC68 likes this.
  3. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Moderator

    Dont you get me into trouble...I dont need any help on that score :D
    Razzyh, Lasty and F_Pantos like this.
  4. It's been a long time coming but couldn't get it past the finance director but after travelling down to techenders finance was given lol
    Kruger, Razzyh, Merlin Cat and 6 others like this.
  5. It’s the company you keep! :)
    MorkC68 likes this.
  6. Terrordales

    Terrordales Nightshift Admin

    F_Pantos likes this.
  7. @pkrboo @pgtips
    Took this from matt s build thread
    Did this work out
    "The beaded straights are these
    I ordered (all beaded)
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 950mm AHJ 950 038 1
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 300mm AHJ 300 038 2
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 600mm AHJ 600 038 2
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 250mm AHJ 250 038 1
    All the rubber bends on ebay were about £7.50

    From water pump side, in sequence
    water pump to
    > straight rubber hose appx 110cm
    > 38/38/25 alloy T piece
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > alloy beaded straight
    > 45 deg rubber bend x 2 over axle
    > alloy long straight
    > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long or use 45 deg above
    > alloy long straight
    > into the 90 deg rad reducer (on earlier pkrboo parts list for RJES rad)
    Pump Side
    underneath shot
    long straight above engine support bar and above drive shaft
    can squeeze above axle where rear heater cable would have gone (I cut mine out for more room, you can just see it on the left and petrol filter is above out the way)
    another angle coming out with 45 deg bend
    ...................final 2 pics in next post as limit of 10 images per post

    Other side
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > 38/38/16 npt T piece
    > 90 deg bend
    > alloy small straight
    > 90 deg rubber
    > alloy small straight (tbc/not bought yet but possible use an offcut or appx 120cm)
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > alloy long straight
    > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long
    > alloy smaller straight
    > into the 90 deg rad reducer

    non pump side
    looking back to the engine
    2 90deg elbows with small straight and longer straight
    couldn't get between axle and body on this side
    then finally into the rad

    Heater matrix host 16 mm is not shown."
    Also may be able to get the aluminium tube from work (covert ordering) but it won't be beaded
    Doest it matter to much ?
  8. Hi,
    the heater matrix is hidden inside the rad so in truth nothing to show , it sits really nicely in the gap thats left.

    yes pretty much, I had odd bits here and there but its a case of building most of the jigsaw then getting your head around whats left which is much easier when most of it is done.

    I would get beading, its a little extra secure to avoid popping pipes, also 110% get decent jubilee clips, I had some iffy ones which were pointless.

    Oh and off ebay I got a burp kit, cost £12 i think i mentioned it somewhere but extremely useful.
    Kruger, Razzyh and lowie like this.
  9. I am not intending to run a heater as I've got a diesel heater so do I just make a loop for the heater circuit
  10. Yes just loop it

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    lowie likes this.
  11. I'd probably go the bit and add the heater, it'll run through your existing ducts so can be used for screen etc, might save firing up the diesel one.
    Kruger likes this.
  12. In the grand scheme of things not that bad. I believe fellows drill and weld in a barb to the metal fuel inlet pipe.
  13. I'm thinking drill and bolt a barb with a fibre washer, possibly up the top so it isn't immersed in petrol all the time. Still thinking currently.
  14. It's more of a cost thing really as the heater are 100 /140 and pipework etc
    Although the extra coolant flowing around would be good
  15. Tbh I would go with the most elegant solution, which is fitting a new fuel injection fuel tank.

    It means you have a brand new worry free tank and a feed and return line and its all as it should be.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2021
    Razzyh and paradox like this.

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