It is said that a section cut out of an aluminium push rod , certainly the Type 1 pushrods, has exactly the correct internal diameter for the bearing dowel pin, so drilling oversize for the outside of the pushrod in exactly the same place can be done. You have nothing to lose by diving inside and taking a look. Even if you decide to send a complete pile of parts off to an engine builder in the end. .. But provided you worry at the right time about the right things , keep going , dont stop for too long , you will get back to a running engine somehow from the kit of parts you started with .. I think I did a Type 1 engine on the ground beside the bus, rebuilt sideways in a Sainsburys shopping plastic crate, in about 3 weeks of spare time, which included waiting for two deliveries of parts.
I've used a water based paint stripper that is OK with aluminium. It seems to be working. I'm taking it but by bit and cleaning off as it works so that it does not stay in the case too long.
Even stuck on the rockers , like you say it's everywhere . Even that bit on the rocker would eventually fall of and end up blocking an oil way . You are doing the right thing buddy ...sort the engine out .
Agreed , it's got everywhere which isn't good as it means cleaning out everything internally including ALL the oil ways ... Bugger...... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
The rocker pedestals are the wrong way round and the pushrod tube retaining springs are missing. The oil cooler is a bit battered so check it carefully – it’s much easier to replace it with the engine out. Hydraulic cam and followers and fuel injected crankcase case, the AMC heads should be okay. On the crankcase undo the strainer nut before any of the other bolts.
Ta v much. The strainer nut is out but the cover is gunked up all the way down the sides so I'm contemplating how to pull it out. Funny, but I checked 'lefty loosie' three times before I turned the strainer nut....
You might be able to get a screwdriver into the sealant and lever the cover out. Or leave it until you start to split the crankcase – and that’s probably going to be a challenge. Is the oil pump covered in sealant?
Front plate came of OK but back plate is stuck to case. I've left it for the evening. The yellow stuff is the gunk removal stripper now cleaned off. By the way, could you elaborate on your point about the rocker pedestals, I did not quite understand what you meant.
As long as you have removed the cover nut you could probably leave it there until you split the case. Don't forget the case bolt that's recessed just above it, passing through the eye that is on the other end of the stud that holds the cover plate. Often forgotten, that's the case bolt that has the copper washer A rubber mallet might come in handy for separating the case halves. Don't be tempted to lever anything in the gap - you want those surfaces to stay very flat
They should go like this..see link below...gap facing down for the wire retainer to go in [*]Rocker Gear Install Oil pump will come out easyer when case bolts are loose later.. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
That’s a Schadek oil pump, they’re often loose in the case but you might have one that isn’t. Slacken the casing bolts before you try to remove it and be very gentle levering it out. The rocker pedestals have a split on one side which should face the pushrod tubes and there should be a wire spring that fits into the slot and pushes down on the tubes. It might look like a random bit of bent wire but it has to be that shape to fit around the push rods. It’s part number 021-109-339 https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/021109339-pushrod-tube-retaining-wire-1700-2000cc.html
It’s worth taking your time Chris with the strip down and rebuild. Cleanliness is the key as well as measuring everything and rechecking. I am a time served technician and have worked on cars since leaving school. But I still did my homework before attempting a rebuild. The Bentley manual. Jake Raby type 4 rebuild dvd and Tom Wilsons book ‘ How to rebuild your Volkswagen Air cooled engine’ are all worth getting and digesting. They will help you rebuild a reliable engine. As well as the knowledgeable folk on here Deefer66 did a very good engine rebuild thread thats worth following for reference https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/type-4-cj-engine-rebuild-2ltr.59507/
This^ And your engine has obviously been rebuilt before with non-standard parts, incorrectly assembled parts and missing parts. With care, time and some money you can make it a good engine.
That's taken it off the outside, but you may well have sealant "worms" inside that are just dying to block up your oilways... Good clean up inside after splitting the case!
So a bit more work done and she is exposed! Now for the cleaning. Besides the copious amount of gunk that as you can see found its way as far as the strainer, three bits that need fixing are immediately obvious. The dowel on the flywheel end is loose, allowing the bearing to move. A dowel was missing from one of the central crankshaft bearing shell and finally the camshaft end cap is not an end cap... doh! Once clean I'll be measuring up with the help of @mcswiggs who has offered to help when he is free . Finally, the small 'thing' fell out of the bottom half when I turned it over...I can't yet identify it...any ideas ( last picture with scale)
That looks like part of a cam follower, have you checked the followers are they all intact? Plus point is your mains bearings are std so you have scope with the case if it needs work. Are the centre main bearings a snug push fit in the case saddles? If they are a sloppy fit you’re probably going to need an align bore.
