Oil leak source

You should be able to straighten that out okay – it’s what happens when a hammer and screwdriver are used. The bottom of the groove must be spotless, same with the heads and case and remove any burrs. Don’t use sealant when you refit the tubes, just a smear of o-lube, rubber grease or oil on the O-rings. Push and twist the tubes and they’ll pop in without resorting to a hammer.

 

There are good days...they included the stripping down...and then there are frustrating days!

The amount of sealant is slowly diminishing but under the bashed in and gunked cam cap bodge job is this little beauty, looks like the slot for the washer may be OK on the outer edge, but the raised metal will have to be dealt with, me thinks.

 

And look at the state of that cam bearing.

 

Any tips in getting them out? They won't budge and I don't want to damage anything if possible - ignore this piece of wood and gentle tapping sorted this out

 

What do all the other bearing shells look like?

 

I am thinking I will be changing these as they are relatively inexpensive and rather important!

 

Yeah might as well while you're in there eh

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Nice pics – bad bearings, all of them.

 

Replace all of the bearings anyway now it's split. It's a false economy not to

The case mating surfaces don't look too bad though. Make sure if you scrape them, to use something softer than the case e.g. an old credit card cut into strips

What do your crank and cam surfaces look like?

 

I think the main problem with the case is the loose dowel hole on the flywheel end main bearing saddle, which is what was allowing the bearing to spin through a number degrees. Off to the machine shop?

 

I'll post some pictures of the uncleaned cam and crank tomorrow. I've started the cleaning process on the case but the sealant is proving difficult to get off. I will check the case etc, hopefully with some help after lockdown finishes.

 

I rebuilt my beetle engine many years ago and had a similar issue, although at the pulley end of the crank. A PO had fitted a vernier pulley, but got it to fit by roughly grinding the back of the pulley. Needless to say it didn't do much for the balance of the crank and pounded the case a little around that journal pin.

I used some JB Weld to set the bearing in place while we bolted the case back together. Many years later, it's still going strong. I converted it from 1200 to 1641 too, and the new owner has not been pootling along either.

Just a suggestion, depending how bad the damage is and your budget

 

The dowel simply locates the bearing, the case should crush the bearing shell to prevent it from rotating. The case definitely needs to be dimensionally checked to ensure the bearing saddles are not oversize - the shine on #3 bearing saddle may mean that bearing has been loose too. What does the case look like under #2 bearing?

 

Some photos for you showing crank and cam and case under bearings. The oil is just where it has settled as I've left it flat to let some penetrating oil work on the dowels in 3 and 4. Any tips about removing them would be appreciated.

 

The dowels should pull out with Mole grips, or similar.

 

If Mole grips don’t do it weld a nut on the dowel and twist it.

 

Is there any issue with just leaving them in if they are reluctant to come out?

 

You can leave them in unless the case needs to be machined.

 

Looks pretty good from a distance.

 

Doesn't look like there is any raunging done on the case mating surface's ...which was expecting to see, what with all that sealent .