I went through all of this last year. Had a Technical thread running Last April . I bought the double lip seal from simply bearings but didn’t use it in the end. My gut feeling was it seemed too heavy duty. I ended up using an Victor Reinz seal from GSF. A 10mm seal in a 12mm hole.
Thanks, I now remember reading your thread and the seal article. I did forget to check the depth of my seal recess as I was following Bentley and Wilson and their advice did not mention this AFAIK...silly mistake on my part. I'm going to take a look at the flywheel via the hole in the tinware to see what I can see and then decide.
Niggling worry ..that's what I blame. The engine is back out, two hours, not too bad for my second time around! The seal was leaking a small amount - Mr Niggle did his job. I have a 12mm crank case lip, if that is what it is called. So do I order the Victor Reinze 10mm and push it in to the lip or the 12mm one suggested above...please discuss Other questions will follow
That’s a great question to which I don’t exactly know the answer but... I had the same leak from my home build type 4 with a 10mm seal in a 12mm hole. Fingers crossed mine appears ok now with a 10mm Victor seal pushed all the way in.
The last couple of engines I’ve had in the bus have both had 12mm deep recesses with 10mm seals flush with the face – not pushed fully to the bottom. You must make sure the seal lip is running on the parallel section of the flywheel, if it’s close to or on the radius push the seal in further. A double lip seal is arguably better but not really necessary and of course VW didn’t fit them, possibly because they are more expensive and if you’re buying several thousands of seals it makes a difference to the bottom line. I’d fit a new O-ring with a smear of oil, even if it is graphited, and a single lip seal also with a smear of oil. And a smear of sealant just on the casing split line, not all around the seal.
My search skills are letting me down. I can't find the VR one on either of these sites. The eBay one is in stock at £23. Bit more expensive but will get it unless there is an alternative supplier.
Whilst engine is out, again, I'm thinking of changing my engine mounts. I out the old ones back in as they looked pristine. However @mcswiggs thought they had a lot of movement. Quick question then - how much 'wobble' is normal for engine mounts. Should the bar be really stiff or, as on mine, be loose both vertically and horizontally. Thanks
If you wanted to do something different from the last time you could try what Vinnyboy had success with? 10mm knocked right into 12mm hole IIRC.
If you look back at my posting you can see how I put dry marker pen on the flywheel to see where the seal was running.
