Oil leak source

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Chrisd, May 30, 2020.

  1. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I use a smear of sealant top and bottom in the bore just on the split line, when there is sealant all around the seal it can tilt as the flywheel is installed until the sealant goes off. But this time you bottomed the seal so that shouldn’t have been a problem.
     
  2. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I think that as this is puzzling us all and I have put all of the bits together, I'm going to do some test drives and then see what to.
     
    paulcalf and Zed like this.
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It looks different on a big screen, it was just the light i.e. nothing.
    I don't see the need for sealant at all, though I would where Mr Westy says if I suspected an edge of a case half was damaged where the seal fits.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  4. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    So after two drives of about 45 mins each and on the motorway about half of that the engine feels and sounds great. It seems to have a bit more torque low down which is also good.

    The oil situation is....well it is what it is.

    After parking up I put a big piece of plastic below the engine. The keys in the centre are for scale and I've taken the photo 4 hours later from the back looking forward. The left and right are coming from push rod tubes which I will try to wiggle a bit more to try to minimise oil leakage.

    I started this project a few months back to sort out an oil leak and I'm ending this phase, still with an oil leak. However, I'm happy that the engine is in a better place than before I laid my hands on it.

    I think I can live with the oils leak for a bit to enjoy the van this summer and wait until later in the year when I might drop the engine again.

    What do people think about the amount of oil, is it unusual?
    IMG_20210504_200047.jpg
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  5. Keep the sheet under it when it’s on your drive, otherwise get out & enjoy it mate. It’s only a few drips & yes it’s enough to p*ss you off after all the work. Keep your eye on the oil level but don’t stress over it. ;)
     
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  6. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I hate to ask what oil, but if you’re using a synthetic change to a mineral (same grade). Obviously, leaks are not ideal but they’re probably not as bad as they look, although they’ll be smoke from oil dripping on a hot exhaust and the heater will be smelly.

    And there’s no smoke without fire.:)
     
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  7. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Olive oil of course, after all we live in Surrey don't you know. It happens to come in a Halford 20w50 mineral oil tin, but don't let that fool you :cool:
     
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  8. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    I feel your pain as I seem to have been in exactly the same predicament. Gooders advice is good. Try not to stress about it. Lots of new cars leak oil as well. I know they shouldn’t but sometimes they just do. I’ve got a shallow baking tray full of gravel on the drive. Change the gravel every year .
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  9. I don’t think that’s bad at all. I don’t really worry about it if I am not adding oil often or it’s not dripping onto hot headers or getting all over the bottom of the bus. Maybe take another shot at it the next time you have the engine out for some other reason. I would focus on get it running well, broken in and enjoying it. Even a leak free engine after a rebuild will leak a little eventually unless you never drive it. ;)
     
  10. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Latest update is that the oil leaks are very minor. Push tubes literally two drops. The same for the flywheel joint. So roll on the summer and happy campers!

    However, I was puzzling how the gearbox oil had disappeared and no signs of a gear box oil leak.....well there were no signs of an obvious oil leak because it was empty and now that there is the proper amount there is a slow leak from my CV joint, which I'm guessing is linked! These vans do keep your interest keen don't they.
     
  11. 10/10 for perseverance.
     
  12. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    This samba thread might help, it even has a post from our Mike James. :thumbsup: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681875
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If you find your CV joint full of goop instead of grease, that's where your oil is getting out. Not uncommon.
     
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  14. Betty the Bay

    Betty the Bay Supporter

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  15. Another one for the to do list, got some leakage on the box there too... might as well have a good look at boots before getting the seals ordered

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
     
  16. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Often overlooked during maintenance is the gearbox breather hole. Usually covered in oily gloop, it's just to the left of the top central nose cone bolt, looking backwards. A 4mm drill bit in the hand will clean it out:thumbsup:
     
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  17. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

  18. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Ah, now I've read this properly you may find the output flange seal is no longer doing what it's supposed to. They are a tough seal, that over time will score the sealing surface of the output flange and then it drops oil.
    It's up you to gauge how offensive the leak is.
    It's doable in situ, but with care and you may need a puller to remove the flange from the diff. You'll certainly need horseshoe clip pliers and new clips and fixings for the plastic covers that sit behind the flanges.
    Stick some pics up of the leak.
    I'm happy to guide you through the process and point you at the bits you'll need if you want to give me a call next week.:thumbsup: Neil
    Here's one I did last week for a customer. It's a locking 094 syncro box but the principle is the same for the late bay.
    SKF Speedi-Sleeve repaired flange about to be refitted..
    New seal, fittings, caps and circlips.
    IMG_20210505_165640_compress7.jpg IMG_20210505_171935_compress10.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2021
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  19. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    @Chrisd ,If the CV joint has oil in it, it's probably a much easier fix. In the center of the flange is a push fit cap. These can get displaced, either by the end of the axle or by pressure build up, and start to leak.
    Pop it out and push a new one in with your thumb. Put a paper clip down one side to expel any air that builds up underneath as you push it in. Pull out the paper clip.
    You can silicon them in, but only if they are completely dry and clean and it's a bit of a bodge tbh.
    IMG_20210329_170600_compress37.jpg
     
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  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Please elaborate. I've struggled to get these out (when they've been perfectly good) without wrecking them. Is there a way? Perhaps not as same breath you say fit a new one. :)
     

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