The saga enters a new chapter as the old storyline comes to a close. Less than a litre of oil in the gearbox and just a bit of metal... good hairstyle though! Should I flush the gearbox or just fill with oil. I know there are different opinions about flushing and the damage that can do be removing protection, but all POs should be lined up and shot...just out of principle
Which seal did you use? Was it the one in the box of odds and ends you had from me, when you bought the book off me? It was six years ago that I put some of my 1700 back together and I vaguely remember I ended up buying two seals. In the end I think I used the one I bought from Simply Bearings on a recommendation from someone on here (as opposed to the one I bought from one of the VW parts specialists) ... again not 100% certain but looking through my email history I can see the following order which I think includes the deeper seal, second item on the list. Of course I might be talking complete and utter nonsense. .
Normally I don’t recommend flushing but that oil looks well black and gooey and, in this instance, it would probably be a good idea.
Barry, I did use the one which you mention. I checked it all out and it looked perfect otherwise I would have bought new. The seal, photo attached, is the right one for at 1.7 to 2.0.
...unless it started life as an 1800 auto according to Ray on Samba, in which case a 12mm deep seal is used. Out of interest, do you remember flush being a couple of mm sort of knocked right back to the step?
Would using the new oil and changing it in a short while once it has been round the system a few miles be an OK way to get this sorted?
Cool. I think you'll (when you go for it) just have to carefully fit and lube the replacement/flywheel and cross your fingers. As you were focussed on fitting it flush you could try back to the step, but could be it's one and the same thing anyway. [ @Chrisd EDIT] Another possibility I hardly like to mention is the drain hole between the thrust bearing and the seal could be blocked with case sealant. If that were the case you would want to know pronto because lack of flow WILL seize that bearing. This does also force a leak past the seal. Only you know how much sealant was around that area. Hmm, thinking about it the cam one is printed into the case halve but the crank one is drilled so scrap that.
I can't exactly remember, but when I did mine there was discussion on a completely separate thread, which is why I went for the one from Simply Bearings. Good luck with getting it sorted ... I have been following your work with interest ... now I know why I went Subaru.
Yes but I’d use the cheapest GL-4 I could find for flushing then refill with the good stuff. I’ve just spent more than £100 to change to Red Line Lightweight Shockproof, I wouldn’t use that to flush.
I don’t know yet, I’ve not taken it out of the garage and to be honest I’m not expecting a huge improvement but the very nice man at Opie Oils tells me it’s the best at helping out weak synchromesh.
Gear oil and clutch cable renewed, huge thanks to @mcswiggs! 3 1/2 ltrs of new oil Vs ...well how much do you think was in the box... . maybe 1/2 ltr in total.
We bought it a year and a half ago and and started fixing things then, mostly engine related but.....yes in hindsight....go for it I've put some telephone books down my trousers!
There is an alternative crank seal you can use it’s a double lip viton seal. Available at most of the bearing & seal specialists. If I remember in previous threads there was talk of slight wear on the flywheel spigot where the seal has run. The idea is that the second lip gives an extra seal lip that runs on a different area of the spigot. This type however this is for the fan end not the flywheel.
This is a double lip seal that will fit if the housing depth is 12mm but take care the seal lip does not run on the radius of the flywheel. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/S...Oil Seal with Garter Spring/product_info.html
