Oil leak source

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Chrisd, May 30, 2020.

  1. Nice 1 :chewie: enjoy that beer that man :hattip:
     
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  2. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    :( found a small patch of oil under the engine this morning. It is coming from the bell housing/engine joint. I did put both the inner o ring and the outer seal on with a smear of grease as recommended. May I ask if a small leak is to be expected as they bed in and it will stop or is that wishful thinking?
     
  3. Its just re marking its territory.

    Someone else will probably provide a more serious answer.

    Id put some miles on the engine and just keep a careful eye on the oil level/patch size.

    Stick an old baking tray under it.
     
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  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Wishful thinking. Grease? Not for me - engine oil. Wouldn't grease stop the oil getting to the seal to lubricate it? Most types of grease I would not want anywhere near my engine internals.

    The o-ring - these are not ordinary o-rings, they are graphite (IIRC) impregnated and should be fitted dry.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2021
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  5. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Sorry slip of finger, light coating of oil on both..did not know about the dry fitting. Hey ho, it is what it is for now.
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Not gearbox oil is it?
     
  7. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Unfortunately not. However, it is a very small patch and I'll see how it progresses. It looks like it dropped overnight after I ran the engine. I put a paper towel there a few hours ago and so far nothing today while it was standing.

    As an aside, while the camper is on the stands and level, I am going to change my gearbox oil tomorrow. Filler plug loose already.
     
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  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I don't think you will be happy with it leaking as you describe. Knowing what I know if it were me the engine would be back out by now. Cut to the chase as it were. :(
     
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  9. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Before I do that I think I'll see how it goes, starting it and warming it up fully by running on the stands for 15mins over a few days and see what happens.
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Good luck. :thumbsup:
     
  11. Razzyh

    Razzyh Supporter

    I wouldn’t worry about it. Unless it gets bad.
     
  12. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Don’t start it and warm it up for 15mins, get it off the stands and drive it. Most engine wear occurs on start-up and until the engine is at normal operating temperature, it will never reach normal temperature without load.

    The longer it’s left the more chance there is of oil contaminating the new clutch, waiting for it to get bad (any leak is bad) just increases the risk and could increase the cost from a new seal to a new friction plate. I use a smear of oil on the O-ring and seal - the seal must be lubricated or it will rub as soon as the engine starts.

    For the gearbox: Castrol TRANSMAX Manual Transaxle 75W-90. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6363-c...e-75w-90-fully-synthetic-transaxle-fluid.aspx
     
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  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Tut-tut, they are graphite impregnated - fit dry.
     
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  14. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I think they are just a normal O-ring but graphited or not a smear of oil won’t do any harm.:thumbsup:
     
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  15. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks for the advice, all options, opinions and pointers taken on board and then ignored...:cool::D

    Seriously, I did turn her over last night just for a few minutes, mainly to see if she would start again... absolutely perfect, best start I've ever had since we bought her. Overnight, literally two drops if oil below the bell housing joint as before. So the plan is to finish all the bits and bobs needed, change the gear oil and drive her and check the oil situation on an ongoing basis.

    To be honest I just want to enjoy some driving and camping :)
     
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  16. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    If, just if, I decide to drop the engine and change the rear oil seal...just say, not thinking of doing it....really, honest....aaaagh, what rear crank oil seal should I go for?

    The one I put in is the Elring 029-105-245/gen.
     
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  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Depends, and this could be the problem. VW made 2 different depth cases which take different depth seals - 10mm or 12mm. Nothing is straightforward is it? The sellers don't even mention or cater for this AFAIK. Probably because IIRC it's just some 1800's that had a different seal.

    https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8605108
     
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  18. At least enjoy it for a while before considering dropping the engine again.
    Enjoy it whilst we have good weather and do it at the end of the main camping season?
     
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  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Or get it over with before everything is splattered with oil and it's all fresh in the mind. Quick job if you're cross enough!
     
  20. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Cheers @zedders. The seal went in with some careful persuading until it was fully flush. So I'm not sure what a new seal would do unless the old seal is the wrong one (as you mention) or the new 225 flywheel has a diameter that does not match, which I doubt.

    I am really torn about what to do. It would not take much effort to take the engine out, that is not my issue. It is more about what I can do once it is out as banging another new seal in may not accomplish anything. I still have the thought in my mind that it is only a few drops of oil and I literally mean 2 drops. So should I drive it for a hundred miles or so to bed the piston rings in and then check.... I think I need to sleep in this.

    Today is change gear box oil. Sorry @77 Westy this was bought before your recommendation, but it looks OK.
     

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