Oh poop end float problem

I thought it was 1.33
Well that my engine screwed then

 

Likely as not that's the start of the bearing moving in the case!!

 

So is the case scrap?

 

depends on if the engine is at it's machined limit on the bearing size...

 

its a bit late now, but I have the same dial gauge and stand I used it once but the whole thing had to much movement in it hence its still in the box, turned out I hat a mitoyoto one in my fuel pump setting gear I forgot about, any who I think your better off with the ell cheapo end float thingy that look like an l shape and a bolt, 1.33 mm is a load, however if it runs and doesn't leak oil the case needs and the case is goosed, it will be no more goosed after a few months driving about. but I would for sure check the endfloat another way

 

easy enough to knock up and can check with feeler blades, much more reliable and simple

 

It was leaking from the flywheel oil seal before i pulled the engine as i had engine oil in the bell housing and theres signs of oil contamination on the clutch

How much does having the case machined for oversized bearings cost roughly? and how much are bearings
Also will the crank not need machining considering it was a new replacement

 

Not a subject I know anything about but hope its not fubar,ed mate. You could do without that!

 

Too be quite honest dicky this is going to screw any hope of having the bus back on the road this year

 

no reason to machine the crank, the U shaped bearings straddle the case and where they sit the case wares, used case is as good an option and used cases come up fairly often and relatively cheap as long as there is no ware, I will still totally 100million percent check the end float a different way, then at least the potential drama will be justified, I would not trust that dti to a yard never mind 1.33 mm, case machining probably £100 though, bearing are pennies £10-15 I think

 

just drive it with a dicky engine, worse than can happen is it gets broken and its (MAYBE) broken already, double and triple check that measurement before any more eastenders type cliffhangers

 

I would still check visually to see if the bearing is moving, maybe he forgot a shim or something. Doubt it but !!!! The new crank should be fine.

Presuming the engine builder new his stuff surely he could have seen the case needed machine work and wouldn't of put it back together ?

 

I take it that the flywheel nut is not on a reversed thread?
Left loosey as normal is it?

 

righty tightly lefty loosey indeed

 

Well the rattle gun aint shifting it so im going to have to get someone to help me lift the engine off the bench and on to the floor so i can get a long tube on the breaker bar

 

yup, a good rattle gun with a big compressor will usually pull them off, otherwise on the floor and grrrrrr

 

The 12 volt rattle gun shifted it in the end

There was only two shims fitted and i thought there should be three no more no less?

Anyway theres not much endfloat on the crank itself but it does appear that the bearing is moving in the case

 

Yeah should be three shims, allows for oil e
To circulate around them, if you can see the bearing moving in the case then it'd broken, remachine is a possibility, good used case another, what's ya engine code? AD AB ?

 

Ab coded case from a beetle i belive

 

How do you know this?

You do need three shims (that's what VW say), presumably for lube purposes.