JK's first guinea pig needed!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Josh_JK, Aug 13, 2013.

  1. Did the flexi black 'plastic 'pipe come from Propex or J K ?
     
  2. Why are you after some?
     
  3. Yeah !
     
  4. There's an industrial pipe company up here supplying the oil rig industry so I'm well served . No, I was concerned as to the quality of the product .
     
  5. Ok fine but you did say above you were after some, I must have misunderstood.
     
  6. Yes I am going to purchase some hose , but I wouldn't buy from JK due to possibility of it being sourced from the same company that was engaged to make those plastic heater flexies that melt.
     
    Dicky likes this.
  7. They arent going to live that one down eh!
     
  8. With their ''leave it with me and I'll get back in touch with you '' ..... not, approach , No.
     
  9. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Come on, that only happened once....
    (tonguefirmlyincheeksmiley)
     
  10. Looks good but have some questions that perhaps @Josh_JK can answer.

    There seems to be wires going to a plug on the box, these don't look like there entirely waterproof.

    Second Q - I once drove through a large puddle (and this only might refer to my van) but water came in via the walk through air vents, how certain can you be that water from any vents actually don't make it's way to the propex system.
     
  11. i would be worried about the in and out being so close together i am sure propex say the should be apart by a distance so that exhaust gasses are not drag in
    Should not matter inside as its a sealed unit but may course the unit to shut down
    @TheGazman
    Edit
    Found this in the manual
    The combustion air pipe can be terminated underneath the vehicle
    making sure the end of it is at least 0.5 metres away from the end of the
    exhaust and that they are not pointing directly at each other.

    As for length found this on propex web site
    Total combined length must not exceed 4 meters and the inlet pipe should be slightly longer than the exhaust to balance the burner.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  12. I bought a whale heater
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Which is fully waterproof and attaches under floor and as you can see sits up higher than the chassis and has two vents, inlet and outlet inside the van and also all electrical connections! This is an electrical and gas propex heater giving out 2kw of heat! There are two pipes externally exhaust and inlet, both of which are supposed to come out the side of the van but be at least 1 m apart! Gas connection is also outside:)
    Haven't tried it yet but intend using diverter as been suggested by dicky to send into the heater tube but just behind front seats and have a duct straight into living area! That way can heat cab, windscreen an living area it any combination!
    Only thing is I am not sure whale heaters are readily available to joe public and not sure on cost as I bought this one from eBay:)
     
    Dicky likes this.
  13. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]


  14. I think with your set-up I would run an internal duct to the rear for the extract (re-circ) and if using a diverter under the van I would send this up to the front further forward than the walkthrough diverter so its all going to the screen/footwell rather than through the walkthrough as I think with the diverter its not all or nothing and you could still have some heat through the outlet vent in the living area so what would be the point!
     
  15. Of course theres always the option of using an internally heater fitter with diverter and taking a flexi through the floor and up to the front vents (nice and cheap comparitively)
     
  16. ...so an expensive way to demist your windscreen when the standard heating does the job anyway, not much cop for camping and it'll choke on it's own fumes. :)

    I bet the kits will be just like this anyway.

    They were still selling the JK exclusive melting concertina pipes when I looked a few days ago so must be immune to feedback.
     
    Dicky likes this.
  17. Just thought I'd throw me 'at in t' ring....
    if the unit is fitted as per the install above..and you really want to maximize the efficiency, you'd run a length of insulated ducting from the "recirculated air inlet" up through the fuel tank enclosure, up through the passenger side rear air intake and mount a louvre vent as close to the top as possible....or if you've got an overhead locker, a nice long slit vent just below the top of the tailgate window...Hot air rises
    Much more involved, but if done right, would work well

    I honestly don't understand why folk would want to fit a propex to supplement heating whilst driving, when the stock system can be made to work really well...OK, if you've no heat exchangers, you've not many options, but if you have, and they're not totally knackered, then it's a straightforward job to sort out properly (and relatively cheap)

    I think an underfloor propex is the way to go from a space saving and noise reducing stand point....if it's just for climate control when your camped up then I wouldn't bother trying to incorporate the existing heater pipework at all....keep the ducting runs as short as possible and design a proper baffle box to reduce fan noise

    Or buy a blanket
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  18. thing is if theyd have asked me id have given em some help. I also wouldnt have been precious about cutting a hole in the bus as its already got a good few!
     

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