I stripped an engine once that had about 2 pints of sawdust in it to quieten the engine. I bought the whole car and threw the motor in the crate of engines that Volkspares bought off me as scrap. I got more for the motor than I paid for a replacement SH one... 20 years ago...
tonight's instalment.......... a little bit more of the strip down. removed all the exhaust, heat exchangers, carb and manifold, alternator and fan shroud. I have found 1 problem........the carb manifold has a long crack in it behind where the pre heat tubes fix, I take it this may cause a problem i.e overheating running lean. I take it the exhaust studs tend to unscrew from the heads and can just be screwed back in. new exhaust needed as the empi welder had a bad day,my 3 yr old granddaughter would do a better job.. I'll keep taking bits off as I get time
spot on 2 out of the 8 unscrewed. better than snapping I suppose. should I just stick em back in with some thread lock
Yes, take the nuts off and get them free running, or replace the studs if the threads are coroded away.
back into the garage tonight.... bit more strip down. heads off, barrels off, oooh dear. does this photo mean its been ground before if I get hold of the con rod you can feel side to side movement so I think it will need a crank grind(or new) and some new bearings. I think that's me not allowed in the garage now until after Christmas but I will try to sneak off for an hour or so... any thoughts @Fish @zed
Side to side ok, but do they rock and have you tried them all. Fish was pulling your plonker when he said ALL the big ends. It's always one that lets go first.
I wasnt pulling his plonker. Audio can be hard to translate in a video and youre even telling him to check the big ends now. I'm not playing who can wazz up a wall the furthest!
all the rods move number 4 piston feels more than the rest, its what I would call "wiggle" rather than slide side to side. wont help if no1 piston ring is in more parts than it should be. I thought the piston rings and the oil rings would be a tighter fit.... I'm thinking the case will need splitting to make sure and to make sure everything is clean and no bits are lying in the bottom. as the engine never seized I'm hoping it can be saved.
A rebuild depends on many things once you get it completely stripped. Keep going and let @zed and I squabble over the finer points.
cheers guys when I get time and pluck up the courage Ill think about splitting the case, as its just about done anyway I might aswell......
If you don't have end float (mm's) it will be the big ends (or one at least ). You can take off (the worst) con rods without splitting the case.
The trouble with bearings is the good ones are steel backed so when it gives up, in no time it's wanging about as per you video with the steel backing wrecking the crank journal. That's why the advice when your oil light comes on is not to limp to the next convenient stopping point, but switch it off pronto.