Fuse melting engine cuts out - help please

Wow!!!

 

You fuse box should be wired like this.

 

Yes if it makes you happy, it'll match the diagram though it'll be electrically identical to how it is now.

 

I'll leave it alone then if it's not going to change anything.

I wondered if it would make a difference to the operation of the lighting Relay

 

It won’t. If the base of F8 and F9 are linked, they’re the same thing electrically.

 

I posted a review of the Frost Auto Restoration "Ceramic" fuses in the review section... approximately 50% are ceramic ...the remainder plastic.

 

Thank you.

Strange that half are plastic & half are ceramic.

 

Just in case ..I might have missed it.. the dash illumination lights come off the light switch.. if that's what you meant by dash lights.. the warning lights come off fuses as above..

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for everyone's help and input.

I'm now quitting whilst i'm ahead/before i break something that works at the moment.

The ignition feed has been moved from the fused side to the unfused side of F9. Thanks
The F8 feed to the lighting switch has also been moved from the fused side to the unfused side.

My wiring now closely resembles what it should:
Except that my red and white feed from the starter comes into unfused F8 (rather than F9)
My main ignition feed comes from unfused F9 (rather than F8).
I'm not going to swap them round.
The immobiliser is still in place on the main ignition feed, but my engine shouldn't cut out whilst driving now.
I know pretty much what is on each circuit and have a better understanding of the electrics, which i didn't have before. Thanks.
I've got a great collection of wiring diagrams which will hopefully help if/when I encounter future problems.
I used the diagram to help identify that F8 lighting feed should be unfused & mine was on the fused side.
I've got a simple 12v test light.
Used it to check that an F8 feed was actually going to the lighting switch (I haven't got the instrument panel off and its really hard to see the wires).

Still to sort:
One issue i've found is that if I turn my side lights on, my petrol gauge needle moves!
If the lighting switch is turned to 'dim' then the gauge shows nothing, if i turn the switch to 'bright' then the gauge shows fuel.
I assume this is an issue on the rheostat or whatever its called.
I think this issue may have been present for a while as I remember turning my lights on before and 'gaining' some fuel.
It does this whether my F8 lighting switch feed is on the fused or unfused side.

Left hand indicator dash operation bulb doesn't come on.
Main Beam 'indicator' light doesn't come on when i turn my main beam on - I think this is just a bulb/connection.
Side light 'indicator' light seems to be unfused and I haven't found out if it should be or not yet.


Hope I don't have any electric issues when next out for a spin or i feel a massive idiot. I'll leave the glove box out for a while for easy access.

Hope i don't nearly crash my bus into the garage wall again, because i tried starting it when left in gear!

Cheers all

 

Bad earth somewhere?

 

I think you've still got work to do. The fuel gauge moving with the dimmer isn't right. You could easily burn out the track on the dimmer rheostat if you put too much load on it.

I'd start by getting @matty / @Bigherb 's excellent diagram, and just go along the top of all the fuses, checking the wires/colours against the diagram. Then at least you'll know what else has been fiddled with. You could also take out the instrument pod (easy enough) to see what bodgery lies behind it. Summut's not right.

 

I will do as soon as possible.

I need to remove the instrument panel really.

Not sure if the heater levers will slide straight out or if I'll need to remove the stereo to be able to remove the levers, then the panel.

 

The knobs pull off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

^this, if they're the late Late ones. They just pull off.
- pull off levers x 3
- put hand round back of pod to catch clips x 4 when you undo mounting screws
- hand up behind dash, undo speedo cable sleeve
- done!

 

That’s good advice. Those spring clips on the right hand side like to fall on the main light switch, which can be ‘entertaining’ if the battery’s connected.

I feel I should’ve been more informative previously and advised that you’ll have to yank on each knob quite hard to pull it off, so when doing so make sure your head isn’t right behind your hand or it’s likely to come off suddenly in your fist and hit you in the face.

Snigger snigger...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

It is an excellent diagram, but my van was built before the period it covers, so there are a few minor differences.

I've checked my fuse board wire colours & everything corresponds.
For me Fuse 11 is 'Instruments and Indicators' Green and black wires (not F12)
Fuse 12 is Horn Yellow & black & Brake Black (not F11)
This is correct when is check the current flow diagram.

My unfused 8 & 9 feeds are swapped over (don't think this changes anything).

One thing I have noticed is that my green and black wires are joined together into one spade terminal on F11 - could this have anything to do with fuel gauge reading when the side lights are on?

My money is on the wiring at the back of the lighting switch being the cause.
Can't work out from the current flow diagram how the Lighting switch & fuel gauge could even be linked!

Not as straight forward to get the instrument cluster out on mine
The knobs on the heater levers don't just pull off.
Doesn't look like i can pull the entire lever out without removing the stereo and undoing some clip things on the heater lever
It's an early late bay. 73 Model year.

Am i less likely to burn out the track on the dimmer rheostat if the feed went from the fused side of F8 (until i can find the fault)?

 

Your levers may be held by weird clip things, which are a pain. Easy enough to take the lighting switch off for a looksee.

 

My levers were held in with spring clips that slide in alongside the lever from the top. There’s also supposed to be little round plastic plugs through the clip and the lever holding them tightly together on earlies but mine were missing. Well JK stock almost everything these days so I have a set now.

 

Ours are 73's.. just pull the levers they come off eventually.. here's one with the console removed for clarity..

Now with photo attached...



Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

excellent i didn't know you could take the entire switch off