Fuse melting engine cuts out - help please

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by paulcalf, Jun 25, 2020.

  1. Sorry I hadn't realised you'd drawn it, but it looked clear and quite useful, especially the feeds into the box. I haven't seen another diagram like it anywhere.

    71. I think I've got them all, probably (mostly from Samaba) plus the ones in Bentley and Haynes (which is useless in black and white).
    I was sitting in the bus with the glovebox and instrument cluster out yesterday tracing wires trying to figure out what the PO had done, and I see some things that are don't tie up with the printed diagram (from Samba) I was using for my MY.
     
    snotty likes this.
  2. Massive thanks to @Gooders who has been and looked at my wiring.

    The big red wire has been relocated from the top of fuse 9 (fused), to the bottom (unfused) side of fuse 9.
    Gooders tested the load on this circuit and thinks its all ok.
    Sods law meant the fuse/circuit diagram print outs arrived as soon Gooders had left!
    I've got a set of drawings that will live in the bus and an even bigger set for at home.

    Ideally i want to remove the immobiliser, but it would have taken too long as it seems to have loads of connections.
    As the circuit it is on is unfused, it can't cut out whilst driving.
    I now have a wiring diagram for the immobiliser and it does have its own internal fuse.

    Fingers crossed that this is the end of my electrical woes.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2020
    Lasty, Valveandy, philntfc and 5 others like this.
  3. Yep I feel your pain. It's like waiting for tools from Amazon, only to tell yourself you can't wait anymore, and bodge it with a screwdriver. Then Royal Snail turns up...
     
  4. These print outs were coming via the Mrs rather than the post.
    They didn't have any toner yesterday, Gooders came today before she was back from work with them.
     
  5. UPDATED LIST of @paulcalf fuses and wiring for my own future reference

    Main battery

    1: Passenger Rear tail light
    2: Side lights. Drivers Rear tail light. Number plate light?
    3: Low beam left
    4: Low beam right
    5: High beam left. High beam indicator (dash) light?
    6: High beam right (passenger side)
    7: Empty
    8: Red & white wire from starter in from below (unfused). Hazard warning lights (fused side).
    9: Big red wire Ignition goes to the UNFUSED side. Immobiliser - has its own fuse, wiring diagram saved to google drive not in the bus. Nothing on the fused side.
    10: Windscreen wipers, oil cooler fan.
    11: Indicators, G & Oil light, fuel gauge. , oil pressure gauge, oil temp gauge, rev counter?
    12: Brake lights. Horn

    Unfused: Indicator panel fuel/speedo lights, oil pressure gauge light, oil temp gauge light, rev counter light.

    Find out which fuse engine bay fire extinguisher warning light thingy is on
    CHECK: Cig lighter socket?

    [​IMG]


    Leisure Battery/Leisure fuse circuit
    1: Original Interior cab light - (operated by buttons on the door and the switch)
    1: Big light (operated by pull switch on dash, plus button on side of light)
    2: Fuse removed. disconnected big red cable previously used for amp
    3: Empty
    4: Stereo
    Amp: In line fuse only
    Interior Spot lights (powered through amp circuit)


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2020
    docjohn likes this.
  6. You've still got some work to do. The top of F8 should only power the interior lights and hazards. Sidelights should be on F1 and F2. Something mis-connected on F8?
     
  7. No, as you were. I'm wrong.
     
  8. As you were again. Front sidelights are on F2. The Americans didn't have them.

    However F8 should only be powering interior lights and hazards.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2020

  9. Right quick lunch time check

    Remove fuse 2: side lights go out. Good I think

    Remove fuse 8: Side lights, dash lights and hazards go off.
    F8 fused side: Remove red wire - hazards go off. Good I think?
    F8 fused side: Remove top red wire with black cover - side lights and dash lights go off. No idea if this is correct or not? Does it matter?

    You say F8 should only be powering hazards and interior light.
    1973 list https://www.autogenius.info/volkswagen-bus-t2-second-generation-1969-1979-fuse-box-diagram/
    shows front interior light on F8, rear interior light on F9 (both of mine have been moved to leisure battery circuit, so im not worried about this)
     
  10. Having checked with my wiring diagram im even more confused.
    Am I right in thinking that the side lights/dash lights should actually be coming off the unfused side of F8?

    If so does that mean dash lights are not on any fuse?
     
  11. Sidelights going out after removing F8 isn't right. Try and find the correct wire for sidelights, and connect that to the top of F2. Then they're sorted. If the red wire you removed from F8 is a thick one, that (probably) is the supply to the hazards.

    As per list, F8 is only interior lights and hazards. Top of F8 should only have two reds on, one thin, one thick. What is the "cover" on youyr wire mentioned?
     
  12. matty

    matty Supporter

    What year bus is it
     

  13. The correct thin wires grey wires for the side lights go to F2 fused side.

    My interior lights are no longer on F8 or F9 they are on a leisure battery/ fuse box.

    F8: Fused side - One red wire is for the hazards (i'm happy with this).
    F8: Fused side - The other red wire (black insulator in the photo) - does have something to do with the side lights.
    I'm now pretty sure that this red wire should be on the unfused side of F8 & goes to the 'lighting switch'.
    That is what i'm hoping someone confirms for me - as it's my first attempt at reading a 'current track' wiring diagram and remember I failed physics!

    If that is the case, can anyone also confirm if the 'dash lights' are on a fuse or not?

    The 'cover' on the wire I mentioned - is just me poorly describing the black 'insulator thing' on the wire/terminal.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Wiring corresponds to 1973 wiring diagrams and current track. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/baybus_7374.jpg
    I'll try and attach it.

    Although my Red and white feed from the starter goes to bottom of F8 (the diagrams all show it going to F9).
    Plus the main big red wire to the ignition NOW goes from unfused F9 (the diagrams all show it going from F8).
    It appears that the immobiliser takes a feed from this 'ignition' wire.

    The other red wire on unfused F9 goes to the relay (probably for dimmer and flasher), which I think is correct.

    Perhaps i should move the Red & White cable from unfused F8 to unfused F9.
    Plus move the big red ignition wire from unfused F9 to Unfused F8.

    Thanks for the help everyone.

    I was happy I was sorted until @snotty raised the side light question.

    Had a narrow escape from driving into the garage wall earlier. Started it in gear! Quick reactions and some big cushions helped prevent any major damage![​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2020
    Lasty likes this.
  15. Sum-up from my diagram below. This is what you should have, seems common across the years, and is what you should try to get back to.

    Bottom of F8
    - thick red 4.0mm2 to ignition switch 30
    - thin red 1.5mm2 to lighting switch 30 to power sidelights when ignition off. This subsequently goes through the switch and powers F1 and F2 (sidelights).

    Top of F8
    - thin red 0.5mm2 to interior lights
    - thick red 2.5mm2 to flasher switch 30 (power to hazards with ignition off)

    Fuel gauge and dash warning lights on F12.
    The dash illumination lights don't have a fuse - they rely on the track of the dimmer rheostat burning out.

    Again, I'd recommend just ripping immobiliser out to simplify things. It surely can't have that many connections.
     
  16. matty

    matty Supporter

    624FFFF3-329A-4F3F-A1B2-23145A406C04.jpeg
     
    Deefer66, Coda, snotty and 1 other person like this.
  17. Rich thanks very much for your assistance.

    Ok, if i get chance i'll have a go tomorrow.

    Basically if i switch my unfused F8 & F9 wire - I think i'll be as it should be (apart from the immobiliser).
     

  18. [​IMG]


    Thanks very much.
     

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