Fuel leak on holiday - urgent!

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by dazzaxjr, Aug 24, 2011.

  1. Just to test I swopped out the coil and reinstated the relay circuits. On a test run the problem with hesitation and stalling returned. Again put back to the bodge with a switch running g off the battery and runs fine.

    O it's not coil
    O it's not fuel pump (hopefully)
    O assume it's not ht, plugs as it runs fine with bodge

    It could be that just connecting anything to the coil disturbs the electronic ignition, or that coil cannot supply enough power for pump.

    At the moment we're going to the using the bodge to get us home. It's only 700 miles or so. :)
  2. So you have a power drain caused by the pump in circuit with the coil somehow.
    Really annoying but I bet your pump is pulling more than 2 amps for some reason and therefore causing a current drain to the coil!

    Reviewing the wiring on volkzone it relies on a decent current on the ignition fed circuit as you said.
    I think there's a better way of doing this, the fuel pump feed needs to be independant but controlled by the ignition switch.
    Need to stare at it ???

    Meanwhile you have a get you home solution. Don't forget to switch of the pump when you stop!

    Your pump getting hot means it's working hard for some reason. Have you checked your fuel tank vent, filter right way round? Undo the fuel cap after a run and see if it hisses. If it does then that explains both your pump getting hot and your fuelling problems (somebody's probably already mentioned this, havent read the whole thread)
    The pump is cooled by the petrol, it runs all the time the engine runs and has a valve that recycles fuel internally when the floats are full.
  3. Have you got a multimeter with an amps setting on you?
    If so connect the ammeter in circuit with the fuel pump and see what you get. (Disconnect the pump live, connect to the meter set on amps, connect the other meter lead to the battery +tive).
    You should get 1-2 amps.
    Anymore say 5+ and your pump is working too hard for some reason (blockage, vent etc.)
  4. Yep bought a multimeter this week to help with wiring.

    I'll check the draw later and see what it says.

    Cheers, Darrell.
  5. My pump just runs with the live feed directly (via a fuse) from the coil, it actually comes off the wire that feeds the Rh choke, having read this i like the idea of the golf relay and using the alt light so shall be getting that setup, mainly because it means with the ignition on but the engine not started the pump doesnt run.
  6. Thats what the volkswold one does as well except it uses a feed from the starter solenoid for the initial start when the alternator light hasnt gone off yet (preventing the pump from running)

    I think all the solutions so far have problems.

    I think a setup similar to Mr Whippy's but with a relay switched feed direct from the battery via a 5amp fuse is the way to go.
    That would prevent any voltage drop problems on the ignition circuit.
    I'd also put a manual prime switch in for when you run out of juice. Ever had that sickening feeling with a mechanical pump? You know, youcalled a taxi to the nearest petrol station waved goodbye whilst you filled up the tank, hoped that you wont run out of battery before the fuel primes?.

    I'll post up something on a new thread this weekend.
  8. Well for starters you want your fuel line coming into the engine compartment to run into a 'T' first then to each carb. The following is a photo from my set up.



    Second, those facet pumps suck. Go with this pump and it will be the last pump you'll buy. It does not need a regulator either. Be sure and get the 3.5lb one.


    Do not use any of those crappy dial fuel regulators either. They're junk. With the above pump you do not need a regulator. Or you can buy a mechanical pump from here:

    www.autozone.com search for the (Airtex Master fuel pump p/n 1442) for 1972 Transporter. Never mind what it says about being for 1.6L motor. It will work on a T-4 motor. It'll be under Repalcement parts>Fuel delivery

    Are you sure your tank is clean?

    Run a filter between the tank and pump and also between the pump and carbs before the 'T'. And clamp all fuel lines.
  9. Well quick update. Decided to press on home with the hodge in place.

    O covered 600kms no problems except a bit of phut phishing from engine. Drove 2hours then rested 30mins to let everything cool down in between motorway driving. Managed to average around 110kmh.
    O after that the fuel pump started to blow fuses. So thinking it was packing up in the heat got put onto a truck and driven 400kms to Calais.
    O in UK couldn't get a lift as breakdown companies were all very busy! So decided to chance it and drove home final 80m at a steady 50/55mph. Made it!

    Now over the next couple of weeks need to think about how I fix this permenantly.

    Cheers, once I've had some rest there will be serious karma for all who helped and supported me through this nightmare / learning experience. :)
  10. Glad you got home ok. sounds like there be more to it than just the fuel pump. Also hope you get a refund or another new pump from webcon for the 2 that were dodgy!!
  11. xcelent1 glad you got home.
    This thread has prompted me to rethink my electric pump setup.
    i'll post up something soon

  12. Glad you got back, albeit not quite how you would've liked.
  13. Well just ordered a cb performance rotary fuel pump. Hopefully fitting this will solve most of my problems.

    After that just need to figure out wiring for the relay so of doesn't use the coil. ;)
  14. Look what arrived yesterday:

    So can't make vanfest as my poor van is poorly, but hopefully not for long. So that's Saturday sorted then. :)
  15. Glad you got the new pump, it should solve your woes, I've still gotta sort a relay out for mine, after alot on head scratching i've got to say the Golf fuel pump relay has got to be the simplest way to do it.
  16. ist that the same style pump as the 2 that were duff? did you get a refund for them?
  18. Experiment 3:

    So before installing the latest pump, I thought it prudent to check it's working. ;)

    So bucket on left has 1 litre of water to pump into bucket on right. Hooked up to jump starter for power.
    Turned it on and it pumped the water in about 45 seconds.
    Next filled the bucket on left with about 10l of water and let it run through that. Took less that 7 minutes, but more importantly was stone cold when it had finished.

    On with the install i think! :)
  19. Hi,
    What happens if you bloke the outlet pipe? Does the pump keep spinning? Does it get hot?
  20. So couple of hours later I finished the install. Here's some pics:

    You can see on the second pic that I had to replace the large metal cased filter that came with the pump. Unfortunately the fuel line from the tank was too small so had to use a standard plastic filter in order to step up the 5.5mm line from the tank to 8mm line used by the pump.

    First install had everything on a line along that metal strut. After testing o decided to reinstall with the filter above the pump as I was worried that the filter didn't seem to be filling up to the output tube.

    Now installed so that filter is vertically below the tank, and pump is vertically below that. Checked and seems to run well.

    Then I pulled the fuel line off the carb and ran the pump to check the flow. Was very good! :)

    Finally took a spin round the block and seems to be fine. Not taken on the motorway yet, but need to build some courage first.

    After the test run the pump was still really cool. Unlike previous pumps, so hopefully this one will last a while longer.

    Now just got to try and sort out the wiring for the relay and were back in business. :)

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