It was in neutral when I removed the engine, I replaced the clutch and release bearing when the engine was out but now it’s back in pressing the clutch does nothing when the engine is running, with the engine running I can shift through the gears without the clutch engaged but it’s not grinding I can freely move through them as if the engine was off
It’s a hydraulic clutch, I assume nothing could have happened if the gearbox married up to the engine okay
Not a stupid like the clutch came with a spacer ring which is still on there ?.. that used to be needed for new finger spring style T1 clutches which are intended for use with earlier throwout bearings. The older throwout bearings used to work with the older three lever operated clutch assemblies. The effect is the spacer keeps the clutch disengaged, as the newer throwout bearings are thicker to match the fingers on a modern clutch.
Yep, I adjusted mine following a youtube video, and they were a mile out. @Zed came to the rescue and showed me how to do em Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
Can anyone talk me through balancing the carbs and getting the correct position for the idle mix screws. At the moment I’ve currently got them all out 3.5 turns and the idle adjusted so it’s just running slightly over 1000rpm. The end might finally be in sight
Anyone? This is what I have kind of put together from what I can find online Start with all air bypass screws closed. Ignition timing and valve clearances all correct. Linkage disconnected from carbs. I would open the idle mix screws 3 1/2 turns. 1- set the throttle plates the same on both carbs 2- start and warm up engine 3- set idle to 900 rpm 4 - slowly screw in one mixture screw at a time until that cylinder starts to misfire (rpm falls slightly) then back it out 1/4 turn. Repeat on all 4. Don't go for highest rpm. 5- reset the idle speed 6 - using an airflow gauge or manometer, balance cylinder 2 with cylinder 4. Adjust it using the throttle stop screws, not the air bypass screws. Reset the idle speed making sure it stays balanced 7 - Now check cyl 3 against cyl 4, and cyl 1 against cyl 2. If they need adjustment (they might not) then use the air bypass screws to do that. The air bypass screws are for final fine tuning adjustment between both barrels on each individual carb. Don't use them like you would on a Solex. Reconnect linkage and adjust it so both carbs open at exactly the same moment. Any advances on this? I find that the idle speed screw on my left hand carb is a lot further in than the right, if I bring it any further out it causes the distributor to advance and the revs to start climbing. I still get a bit of backfiring even after following the above procedure
That sounds about right, and is more or less how I set mine. How clean are the carbs? Did they get a good wash out before fitting?
The carbs were all cleaned out before fitting and it’s all new jets except the mains and they have been cleaned out. I’m having a bit of a nightmare getting it all set up well, I just took it out a drive and it’s okay through the gears to 3rd and then even on the flat when you put it in 4th doing about 50mph it’s got nothing. Finding these carbs really hard to deal with, considering putting the old solex ones back in
My current settings are 3.0 psi fuel pressure 30 chokes 131 mains 180 air 60 idle 40 pump 9164.2 emulsion
If it is only hitting 50mph or so, that could possibly be one cylinder not firing, maybe not the carburettor but an ignition fault losing one spark plug. Or one of the carburettors is not working properly and its either ultra rich or lean on just one cylinder.
How would that show itself? When I’m balancing them I have them all pulling the same on the snail guage so I assumed they’re all firing okay
It should be balanced if all four are firing, but at low speed a lot of the air flow could be air pumping through the engine rather than the effect of combustion adding to the flow. A misfire at idle would sound horrible anyway, as a misfire at low speed breaks up the engine note and you can feel it shake. This is the problem- setting up at idle is just one part of the story. If everything else about the carburettors is good, then this setup gives a good pickup from idle. What happens away from idle though.. You can have linkages that are geometrically asymmetrical (butterflies dont move together because rods are at a different angle) so it becomes very unbalanced as you open the throttle. Fuel float level wrong and imbalanced side to side so that it idles but doesnt pick up fuel flow as much on one side. The larger the venturi relative to the engine capacity, the more sensitive it becomes to fuel float level as the lower venturi effect develops less suction. Bigger is better, massive is more difficult. Blocked main jet or dirt in the air and fuel passages messing up fuel flow at high speed. As they are Dellortos and therefore secondhand: Mis labelled main jets e.g. somebody saved money or time by drilling them out rather than paying for four identical jets.
I’m once again trying to tune them up, just by ear at the moment, I dropped the idle down to 50 but it hated it and was just back firing through the number 4 cylinder so I put them all back up to 60’s and only dropped the mains from 131 to 122. The problem I currently have is I have cylinders 1,2 and 4 all pulling about 6 on the snail gauge at idle but cylinder 3 is away up at 9 and nothing I do seems to be bringing that down
I'm far from the guru's on here regards dells although I had a pair of 36's on my 1700 for about 18 years. I hardly touched their settings from when I fitted them except to balance the throats with a snail. I always had a slight issue with no.2 which always slightly up. I wondered if the air bypass screw might have been the problem. I should have sorted it but didn't. As an aside I dropped a valve guide in no.2 and had to get a new head. A couple of years later I dropped a valve seat in no.2 and subsequently blew the engine........I reckon it was being too lean that did it.
Was yours as far out as what I currently have? Even loosening the air bypass screw on mine doesn’t drop it down, it’s weird. I’m going to have one more crack at it tomorrow and if it doesn’t happen the solex ones are going back in and the dells are going
It's not really what the air bypass screws are for. They should be set at the factory to account for small variations in the idle flow between the chokes due to manufacturing tolerances. Any big inbalance between cylinders is due to something else being off.
Idles should be what your motor wants for “best lean” As in ALL cylinder should react to mixture screw and be 2-ish turns out. Mains 4.2 X idles. Airs don’t really matter-ish Are you getting full throttle? Are the carbs opening at the same time? Are the carbs at full throttle opening each carb the same amount. if the linkage isn’t set properly you will get the problems you talk about
