I'd go with just touching plus half a turn to start. You'll have to adjust them for idle speed and balance when you get it started and warmed up.
Not good to hear. I’ve had mine about 15 years. Maybe they were better then or I was lucky. I get about 12/1 full load and throttle.
Safe but a bit rich. The biggest improvement for smooth driveability on their stock jetting is replacing the F78 emulsions with F6.
Today’s issue….I’m not getting anything coming out of the pump jets on one of the carbs. I’ve got the top off, I’ve put quite a bit of brake cleaner into the bowl and it doesn’t seems to be coming out of the jets. The other side works totally fine, not sure where to start with this one, got a new genuine accelerator pump in there
Not even after a few pumps? There are springs and tiny ball bearing to stop the fuel draining back from each pump jet to the pump (see parts diagrams) and also in the base of the float chamber there's a non return valve to stop it draining back from the pump to the chamber. I had problems with the latter because it's like a jet and has to seat at the bottom, but also has a "shelf" that governs how far you can screw it in. On mine it hit that shelf before it sealed at the bottom so fuel could bypass the non-return valve. I dropped a tiny o-ring from the kit down the hole to fill the gap. Worked a treat.
Nothing at all, I’ve taken out the non return valve in the chamber to see if that was stopping it but no luck, checked that the ball bearings are there as well as the small brass hexagonal tubes that sit on top of the ball bearings, no idea what is going on here. Anything else that could be blocked?
Split diaphragm? The ones in the service kits are poor, I had one that was split before I fitted it, but was only obvious afterwards as fuel leaked out.
I got it, there was a tiny bit of damage to the accelerator pump which was stopping the diaphragm from coming completely through as it was fouling on the edge of the hole, a bit of filing and were in business
Haven’t posted on this because one thing led to another and I decided to whip the engine out and give it a top end rebuild, so that’s been keeping me busy the last couple of days, now just need to wait for all the tinware to come back from the powdercoaters
I finally got round to starting the engine this afternoon, got a few things that are definitely not right though. I have fairly regular popping coming through number 1 barrel which I’m not sure if that’s the valves possibly needing adjusted as the engine has just had a top end rebuild. Another issue is when I put the snail meter on each barrel number 4 isn’t registering anything whereas the other 3 are. Any ideas?
Adjust the valves, anything before that is pointless. Popping (in the exhaust) is weak mixture. ...and you need to get it as warmed up as you can to make adjustments. It'll only get mildly warm stationary but you have to start somewhere before you drive it and iron out any actual problems like air leaks, valve adjustment fuel delivery tc. Once you get it sorted for those conditions, expect to adjust again after a good half hour drive.
Not registering anything is a bit weird, it's a pump even if it's not firing so you'd expect something.
Thanks for the replies, I thought it was really strange that I was getting nothing on barrel 4 at all. I’ll check compressions etc tomorrow I was beaten by the light today. I’ve adjusted the valves cold to just touching and then 1.5 turns is that correct for the hydraulic lifters?
If you're sure you did it right. A light touch is needed to judge. If in doubt unscrew the adjusters and keep going until they are completely loose then tighten with your fingers to find the touch point. Ask @iblaze how easy it is to misjudge these. If in doubt post a photo showing the adjusters.
It doesn't matter, back off until loose, really loose, then carefully tighten. If you use a screwdriver, do it delicately with finger/thumb and no pressure until it touches and stops. If you have to put any effort at all into turning the adjuster you're past where you should have stopped. If it bottoms out hard you completely missed it and your extra turns will stop it being hydraulic and hold the valve open. I suspect this might be you judging from your symptoms.
The spongey is he spring inside the follower - unless you only feel that putting your extra turns on, you passed the the point you should have stopped. Most likely you never loosened them far enough in the first place. Unscrew and keep going until the rockers rattle like gapped solid ones..
Got it running nicely today…except…I can’t engage the clutch since putting the engine back in, it has a new clutch and release bearing, I can move through the gears using the gearstick but it does not engage anything. Any ideas?
