Hi everyone, I’m just about to start to replace my twin solex PDSIT carbs with dell 36’s in my 2.0 bus. Anyone got any advice on this, I’ve read through some of the other posts on here but if anyone had some pictures of their install that would be great. Eurocarb suggested the following for the jets 30 chokes 125 mains 180 air 60 idle 40 pump 9164.2 emulsion Does that sound about right? I have a few other spare jets too, 190 air, 131 main, 55 idle and a 33 pump if any of those would be better in the carbs Thanks Chris
Generally you are replacing a pair of well matched VW carburettors with proper warm-up chokes , with something well suited to higher revving engines. Shifting the difficulty from the complex adjustment procedures of the Solex to having a need to install an AFR meter or pay for a rolling road to get it right. The smaller the choke going from 30 to 28 to 26mm , the more "tuneable" the carburettor will be as it becomes less sensitive to fuel pressure/ float height, relying on a stronger venturi vacuum signal with engine speed to lift the fuel through the jets. A small choke will restrict your maximum RPM but really 4500 rpm is not pushing those new carburettors very hard.
30 chokes. OK but 28 might be better for a stock 2L engine 125 mains. might be ok for 28 venturis I find 135 works well with 30 vents 180 air. Tick. 60 idle. Tick. or 55-57 might be better if you go down to 28 venturis 40 pump. Whatever is in there will be dandy inc your 33's. Avoid buying these ones from Eurocarb, they sell you DHLA ones which are too short and will dribble fuel down the venturi rather than past it. 9164.2 emulsion. Tick.
40s will just give more (temporary) squirtage when you stomp on the pedal. Bit of a waste of fuel, but that's all. PS If the carbs are used (likely) worth taking the lids off, stripping the jets out and giving them a thorough cleaning. Surprising the muck that comes out.
I have a 2.4L with 33 pumps set to barely squirt. The most important thing is that they don't drain back so the squirt is immediate.
Ah okay, it’s the 33’s that are currently in so maybe I’ll just keep them. I got the carbs off of eBay so I got one of the genuine rebuild kits so that’s the first job to do it’s get them apart and clean them all up. What’s everyone’s views on putting them in an ultrasonic cleaner?
Good if you've got one, but you can do a decent job in my experience by stripping everything out if the bodies and blasting every orifice with carb cleaner
Perfect, I’ve got one from when I rebuilt the Solex carbs a couple of years back. Thanks for the info, I’ll definitely be back for more advice once I get stuck into it next week. Just ordered some of the hex head mixture screws I’m sure I read on one of the threads here that they make things a bit easier. I’ve got a Gunson exhaust gas analyser will that be enough to get her tuned up? Don’t really want to fit a wideband o2 onto my brand new csp python exhaust
Hex heads are good, but prob more use on a type 1 where you're tight for space with no engine hatch. Also idle jet extenders for a type 1. CSP centremount linkage is excellent, if it'll fit a type 4 - @Zed ?
I’ve got these on my standard 2.0 type 4. Always runs sweet as. Do a simple tune every couple of years. I use a snail air flow meter and a gunsons colour tune glass spark plug.
I got the CSP hex linkage for it and short manifolds, not ordered any filters yet until I see what space I have to work with once I have them fitted. Is it enough just to tap one manifold for the servo
The trouble with your gas analyser is it will only read an average of all 4 cylinders at once. One may be too rich and another too weak
Tune the idle by ear, balance at idle with an air flow meter, adjust the linkage by eye, AFR or rolling road to get the right size main jets
After a few years I fitted an AFR meter. I’ve changed my driving style since to keep the mixture good
