Yes ALWAYS use new seals. It's quite easy for them to shift a bit as you line up the cover. The other thing is the sprung bales that hold the covers on. If you got them in place by hand... they're too loose and need a tweak or replacing.
Didnt change performance, but it definitely needed doing the old ones where hotchpotch random different hose The spring bale things are super tight I have to lever them on, but i think when i put the new one on it shifted out of alignment and became deformed going to get a new pair, someone posted about using silicone ones but sadly out of sock
I've always used the cork ones. There isn't much room for manoeuvre between the tin above and the heat exchanger below is there? Tilt them back, get the bottom flange over the bale. Get them vertical and aim carefully, feel for the head either side. Threading a rag through the bale to pull on helps get the bale in place and prevent it pushing the cover upwards. I have most success when I coat both sides of the gasket with a barely damp thin layer of grease. Or you could superglue the gaskets to the cover then fit them dry. Having said all that I just fitted a pair totally dry but I haven't started the engine since. They were a good shape.
Amazing advise I just watched a boring YouTube video of a guy describing them, the new cork one I used was a little over sized there was a arch on it so didnt lay flat which I didnt think anything of it at the time, I have more 2 coming so hopefully itll fit snugly I think I'll try the grease trick as well
More. lol. What I do is jack up that side of the bus higher than the other side. That encourages to oil out of that head and also stops any residual oil dribbling over the edge onto the heat exchanger while the cover is off. I lay that rag over the HX before prising the bale down just is case. If I'm really going for it I take the wheel off for more arm room! That might all seem OTT, but a bit of preparation keeps everything under control. The covers and head must be scrupulously clean of all previous gasket and sealant. My main driver is the unbearable thought of having to do it twice because I rushed the first time.
I believe C&C are the only supplier of the silicone gaskets in the UK and they have been out of stock for at least 9 months. I’ve just asked them when, or if, they intend to restock as I need a set, they’re definitely worth having if you check the valve clearance regularly. Did you check the preload on your hydraulic followers?
Yeah I saw your link on another thread and thought it was a very good idea. I gave it ago the best I could but definitely think they need fine tuning as I only just about understood the theory. Today's not going to plan currently, found out that my windscreen is leaking in the corner found a pool of water shorted out my solenoid melting it so cant open my passengers door. Then trying to make the mixture a little leaner it stalled and wont start again
So after having zero luck all day I suddenly thought I had better check the fuel turns out I had ran out what should have been maybe an hour tops turned in to an all day job haha
It's there away of telling of I am to lean or to rich at the moment I get a pop if I let got of the accelerator help haha
I was thinking that if you set it, it would have been while it was revving too high. If it was, you would have had some advance in play which would make you in effect set it too retarded. It sounds retarded now you've slowed it down. Stick with me! Idle speed is very much effected by idle timing. The less idle initial advance, the slower the engine will idle. For example if you had it running nicely at 850 rpm and 8°BTDC, then changed the timing to 4°BTDC, the engine speed would drop to 5-600rpm. Another example. You inadvertently set the timing to 8°BTDC while it was revving high enough to have have some centrifugal advance in play. When you slow it down via the FI, the timing looses the centrifugal element and drops to 3°degs BTDC coughs and splutters and stalls. It's a balance while you home in on it, but timing at 8 degs BTDC using the scale at 850rpm is a must before you can set the FI up correctly.
Amazing thank you so much zedders, am I right in thinking I take off the hose for the advance on the dizzy, luckily my next door neighbours boyfriend was round and herd my struggling today with it but hes bring round his fancy adjustable timing light round tomorrow. Hes rebuilt a couple of beetles. So once that is set 100% then I can move on to the next thing. I have just completed a compression test also just realised the tin were tells you which cylinder it is hahah who knew. 1, 100 2,110 3,100 4,100
Yes you should have and yes the rings need driving to bed in - namely hard acceleration and deceleration ASAP...if you attended to the barrels. Did you take the advice that new rings need a deglazed barrel?
Is that the honing stones you use on a drill if so yeah I did. I quickly drove it round the corner to fill it up. Luckily I drove it quickly mainly to see how it performed
The rings need to bed into the cylinders before you can get an accurate compression reading. Once you have it idling so it doesn’t cut out take it for a run on a dual carriageway where you can get up to 50mph. Accelerate in 2nd or 3rd gear at 3/4 throttle up to about 4000rpm then let it overun back down to about 30mph. Do this 4-5 times. This puts some back pressure behind the rings to force them into the cylinders & bed them in.
So after having a fiddle we have set it up the best we can. But the gaps need setting which is well beyond me I gave it ago but I am officially throwing the towel in. Now to find a garage open in the south west