Avoid a fire, everyone should read this

Peter thanks for the answer to my query most helpful … here's another one what is a kunifer pipe and if I need one where can I get one from?

 

It's a copper pipe that runs from outside the engine tinware to the inside and up close to the carb or whatever else is in there. I didn't have one but Peter made me one that was the perfect shape to fit snugly

 

Hi Barry

Colin is correct, over the years lots of van have had fuel hose put straight through the tinware (fan housing). With engine vibration this is not ideal as having fuel hose scuffing and scrapping through the metal tinware, can become a weak spot. The engines originally had a piece of hard line running through the tinware which prevents this issue. We produce to the same profile a replacement made from seamless tube of correct diameter from a material that is ethanol resistant. We do not use copper pipe as this is too soft and have seen stress cracks in this material, so best that people check this hard line as part of their fire prevention steps.

All of these prevention measures are low cost. So it always amazes me that you can spend tens of thousands on a van and having it restored then people scrimp on cheap fuel line of ebay etc. Hopefully this thread has made people aware of the dangers and how to address them.

One last things is to check out the fuel tank. Check around the tank outlet underneath, as this part of the tank is exposed to the elements it can get paper thin. VW never treated the inside of their tanks and with the higher water content in petrol due to ethanol tanks will rust. We supply an epoxy paint treatment that has been tested and shown to be ethanol resistant unlike many kits on the market. On the tank around the outlet I would recommend a good coating of waxoyl or similar.

We are there to help and give advice and if people want to bring their vans along for a chat and quick look over always happy to see people


Kind Regards
VW Aircooled Works

 

Top man, I will be buying two full kits off you very shortly.
I think some of these VW mags instead of talking about lowering, fitting alloys and all that crap should do a feature of fire prevention using all your kit, it would be a great advert for you and excellent useful information for Bay owners.

 

I've been wading through this thread and I've just checked mine and although not frayed the breather hoses do look old and they are the braided ones so not ideal. Am I right in thinking the rubber hose used for fuel lines is ok for breathers too or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

 

Also - how come the red hose in the original diagram is pretty easy to get to (trust me, this is easy. I have a classic mini) and the green ones I have no idea how to even see them let alone reach them with the engine in?

Please help a newbie

 

Ok well erm it's a 1973 1600 van but had a new engine about 10-15 years ago which looks like this:

Registered as 1598 with the DVLA.

So type 1 or type 4?

 

I'm going to sort it. Previous owner jobby.

So for fuel hoses and breather hoses do I use the same stuff?

 

If you have a copy of hayburner issue 7, Ned asked us to do a write up, trying to highlight these issues specifically focusing on the changes in petrol formulation. It worth a read, trying to bring the point to peoples attention in regards to keeping these vehicles on the road and working with modern fuel. The Hayburner team were great and ran a really in depth article about all the issues and what you can do to look after your van and beetle.

Regards
Colleen
VW Airocoled Works

 

Good to know. Might be worth putting in another mag now just to keep the problem in the limelight.

 

OH

that is good in a way that you have found it before you sell it and can get it sorted so it is safe for the new owner.

Not clear from the pics if it is the fuel line or the tank. If the fuel line will be case of draining tank and then undoing the clip, I always then slice the line with a blade rather than try and pull or twist it off as the outlets can be fragile.

If it is the outlet then afraid to say it is a tank out and either drill and tap a new outlet or buy a new tank. If you buy a new tank remember these are not coated inside so would be worth spending £35 on a tank treatment.

good luck
peter

 

I don't drain the tank either, jack up that corner, remove wheel and you can reach easily through the wheel arch, one arm over the chassis and one under - no face/ear/eye full of petrol that way.

 

I fuelled mine up tonight ,after connecting vent pipes to T piece and ran a hose to my pancake filter as your pic in an earlier thread, no whiff of fuel from my side vents now fuelling up. thanks for this thread it's been very useful. big pat on the back.

 

I took out my tank as one of the pipes looked a bit crusty, I gave it to http://www.rickettsradiators.co.uk/
It came back as good as new all painted with new pipes brazed on:-




The even put a new gasket on the fuel level sender.