I took the easy route and bought everything from Euro Carb. Spoke to a human who said he would jet them up for a standard engine and exhaust. If you want more in depth advice listen to Zed
They say that but then just sell you what they get without changing a damn thing IME. I stopped taking them seriously decades ago after specifying the jetting I wanted in writing, getting their agreement then just getting whatever the carbs came with, which they then tried to convince me was great because their mate ran that jetting on a Beetle. This was specifically ICTs with the dreaded useless F78 emulsions, jetted for single carb use on a Bedford van. I came to the conclusion they like selling incorrectly jetted carbs so they can then sell you a bunch of parts to fix them. On the plus side they do stock a lot of useful carb parts so if you know what you want that's great, but they will tell you black is white to get a sale and mistake "works" for "works correctly"
The thing with the old CO analyzers is they only check idle mixture , the AFR meters provide an indication of what is going on at cruise as well as trying to blast down the drag strip (which is often all that a rolling road using the mass of the rollers is measuring) . If you can find a rolling road with a dynamometer (brake) system then that can be used to more easily set up steady state cruising. So although the idea of cutting a hole for a lambda sensor in an expensive exhaust is depressing, so is driving around with your Dellortos popping and banging because they are off tune. Ask @scrooge95.
The essential thing with your jetting is to know that under maximum load with the throttle wide open it won't be lean and burn a hole in a piston. For this you do need either a visit to a rolling road or install AFr. Did you get a collector reducer for your exhaust?
This is the exhaust I’ve got, I should confess that my van is a T25 but you lot are the only helpful ones when it comes to the type 4 engines and are also the only ones that seems to be installing carbs because the American vans had FI
Yep, took our old air-cooled T3 Doka to a well known VW garage locally when we had issues some years ago. At the time they absolutely only 'specialised' in air-cooled bay and earlier. Despite the engine being pretty much exactly the same as the GE hydraulic lump in our bay, the owner refused to even discuss my issue coz the vehicle was the wrong shape! That sort of snobbery isn't easily forgotten and the irony of their forecourt now being covered in T3s and even modern motorhomes makes me smile when I drive past. As you'll find out if you're UK based and dare to attend techenders next year, all variants and their owners are welcome
Bad idea, you'd be better off venting back through the tin at the road if you don't want it on your air filter.
Would it be okay to have it vent out through the tinware or am I better getting one of the empi oil breather kits? Just in the process of rebuilding the carbs, what height do you set your floats at? I feel like I read somewhere that it was 6mm and 13mm but I can’t seem to find that information again
I vent mine through the tin. You need to find a place suitable regarding what is the other side. Set the float with the hinge at the top and the float dangling, not with the top lying flat.
Perfect thanks for that. Another one from the install that I started this afternoon. The carbs I’ve bought have a twin fuel intake on each carb (see pic). It’s £40 each for one with a single outlet, so to avoid that charge can I… Come off the fuel pump, split it for each carb and then put in a y piece just before the connection on the carb to put a hose on both inlets Or Run it the same way as it was with my solex’s and just blank off one of the inlets on each carb
I'd block one off and T to each carb. Have a look inside the banjo first, you may find one has a much smaller hole inside. I blocked mine by tapping for a small bolt with fuel proof sealant.
Mine were the same, with 2 x double banjos. A 3mm grub screw from eBay fixes that problem. Just bung one unused inlet up (no need to tap a thread) with the screw and a dob of green Loctite, saving yourself a few bob. Mine's been in 5 years, and hasn't leaked. I ran my hoses pump-->double on left side-->over the fan housing-->"single" on right side.
Thanks for the replies, I bit the bullet and bought one of them just to save me blocking one off, so my plan is to link from the pressure regulator on the pump over to my right hand carb and then from the right over to the left one. Had to install the carbs with the pushrods etc facing the front of the van because if I put it facing the back they fouled on the tinware and couldn’t open fully. I assume because I got the low height manifolds that’s why I ended up having the issue
Couple of questions from today. What gap do I set on the butterfly with the throttle stop screw? Also what do I do with this in the back or the engine, I’m not entirely sure what it was for but it was connected to the original air cleaner
That's for the warm air feed that reduces hesitation with the stock carburettors. You lose the inlet air preheat with the Dellortos so block it off.
