Crankshaft rear main seal

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by vinnyboy, Apr 17, 2020.

  1. Jam :thumbsup:
     
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  2. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    This seems to me the best option. The double seal looks better suited for a dumper truck steering column.
     
  3. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    It’s not necessarily the best option but it is an option that should work, and it seems to me that’s what you wanted to fit from the beginning.

    The double lip seal might be more suitable for a dusty environment - from friction material from a clutch plate for instance – oh wait…:)
     
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  4. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    ..I have read somewhere that if you fit a 10mm seal into 12mm recess it won’t leak but once you rev the engine it will spread the oil all over it but that just what I read..I remember tho that it was said by very experienced type 4 engine builder..


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  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What does that mean?
     
  6. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    A 12mm seal in a 12mm recess wont leak either. I don't understand the bit about spreading oil when you rev the engine.
     
  7. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    Replaced Breather box gasket, oil filler gasket and the gearbox input shaft seal today. Still waiting for a 0.32 end float shim to be delivered which should put the end float on 0.1 mm
     
  8. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

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  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    What was the end float before?
     
  10. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    I set it at 0.1 at the rebuild 8 years ago and it was at 0.12 now
     
  11. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I would have left it at 0.12mm
     
  12. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    I still could. What’s your thoughts?
     
  13. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I would leave it at 0,012mm because there’s no advantage in making it smaller and there’s less risk of the bearing tightening up when the engine is hot.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2020
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  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'd go for the 0.010, it's the centre of the tolerance?
     
  15. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    That was my thinking. Bang in the middle. I’m not in a hurry to go anywhere so while it’s all in bits.
     
  16. Dont forget to check it at different parts of a cycle.. just in case .. I didnt get much and probably more through being cack handed but 0.02 towards the tigher side of 0.1 is getting close...

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  17. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    Very good point
     
  18. areksilverfish

    areksilverfish Supporter

    ..my bad..I did read about it few years ago so did not remember any details..but pretty sure it was this guy on thesamba..

    There are two seals. Both are designed as Lil jinx noted.....to be installed all the way bottommed out on the ledge. If it isn't ....and the seal is sealing.....and it slips in further to the ledge while driving.....it will leak like hell.

    The thicker seal (11.5mm to 12mm) is technically a vanagon part. This is why you find them at Go westy. That seal ran in a bore that was usually about 11.5mm deep so the seal protrudes slightly. The part # is 021 105 245 C.

    There were....for reasons unknown some non vanagon type 4 engines that came from the factory with a 12mm seal bore and the thicker seal. I have personally found about 6 of them over the years.

    The thinner seal is part # 029 105 245 B its typically listed as 9mm thick. The bore depth in the case ranges from 9mm to close to 9.5mm. When installed this seal can be dead flush or very slightly below flush.

    Whether they are flush or raised slightly above the seal bore has to do with what the actual bore depth is.
    You need to measure the bore.
    If you have a deep bore seal area.....and put in the thinner seal it will almost always leak intermittently as there will not be enough seal lip tension on the tapered snout of the crank.

    If your crank endplay is also toward the high end of the spec and you either have high piston blow-by or poor crankcase ventilation.....the leakage will get ugly at highway speeds. I have heard that a few people have gotten away with using the thick seal in the shallower bore to fix an out of spec crank snout......but I have never done it and you will have a lot of seal mashing against the back of the flywheel.
    Ray „


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  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Ray's post there is about the seal at the fan end against the crankshaft where fitting a thicker one might take it onto the taper on the crank snout...or further along the taper where the dia is smaller...something like that. That's specific advice relating to that seal only and not relevant at the flywheel end where the sealing surface is constant diameter.
     
  20. vinnyboy

    vinnyboy Supporter

    Great advice from all. Much appreciated.
    Set end float at 0.11 and fitted 10mm seal fully home against inner case. Small amount of sealer on outer diameter of seal. Polished good flywheel and fitted new O ring and felt washer. Torqued flywheel with new lock washer. Hopefully fit engine back tomorrow.
     
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