what would be your "perfect" type 4 engine for a camper?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by rob.e, Aug 8, 2016.

  1. Two litre injection, stock, very economical too.
     
  2. He's well known for good engines. Sold several in Norway
     
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  3. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    For me it’s not about going faster, it’s not having to slow down when I don’t want to, but if you can’t go faster why would you need to upgrade the brakes and suspension?
     
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  4. I can see AFR on this one and it's quiet lean or rich, just sounds a bit different lean.
     
  5. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

  6. I've also looked to see if i can find anyone who's used this kit - google doesn't bring up anything unfortunately. It's pretty much the reason i started this thread :)

    Given you've built a type 4, i'd be interested in what parts you'd put into a "perfect" camper spec motor :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2016
  7. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    I'd not noticed the kits till you linked them, I'd only looked at heads, pistons and barrels.

    I'm going to put a type 4 v Subaru comparison together as I'm torn between one and the other :confused:
     
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  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I have used quite a lot of AA top end parts, they are very good quality. Cranks are almost certainly made in the same factory as everyone else's. Those kits look very good value to me, I paid out £900 just for barrels pistons and rods last year.
     
  9. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Our 1911 pistons and barrels are AA; as you say very good quality!

    The spec stated 4340 crank; 4340 is a good quality steel the aerospace guys use in landing gear applications - we know from our past projects how successful it is :)
     
  10. yep, that's what i thought - even at postbrexitvote exchange rates its still only about £1150 - although you'd need to factor in shipping and might be hit with import duties too..
     
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  11. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    plus a pair of heads :thumbsup:
     
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Your main problem with big capacity engines will be getting the compression ratio low enough to avoid the excessive heat that could spoil the whole point of it. Not fun roaring up to speed when your top cruising speed in limited by heat to 60-65mph. :)
     
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  13. Duty will only be a few % but VAT will add 20%, dependent on what is written on the shipping invoice.
     
  14. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    the GD code case I would use has the galleries drilled and tapped for the remote oil cooler, I'd plumb this is underneath with an air scoop, help keep the oil temp down.
     
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  15. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Its not only the oil temp but the metal part of the heads that is the problem with aircooled engines..
    Only the pistons are splash oil cooled. The heads get hot and limit things as demonstrated by even stock T4 aircooled engines.
     
  16. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Our 1911 type 4 stays surprisingly cool, thermostat in place and working, flaps all flapping as they should plus the rods have the VW endorsed v notch milled in them.
    Obviously I wouldn't soly rely on a remote oil cooler doing the deed!
     
  17. is it a case of stock 2 litre heads or will that strangle the whole thing?
     
  18. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Standard 2.0l have the smallest valves and the worst port shape of all Type 4 heads, 1700 have the best port shape, (some) 1800 have the largest valves.
     
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  19. Do 1700 need machining buy 18s go straight on then. Im assuming that modern off the shelf heads are all 2 litre ones and not a good starting point.
     
  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Mine did.
    [​IMG]
     
    Dicky likes this.

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