As the title. I've had this engine sat around for too long and have finally got around to stripping the ancillaries and having a look at it. I got it with a known major oil leak, looks like the crankshaft oil seal. My initial idea was to just replace the seal, clean it up, check the compression and sell it on. Now I'm thinking about spending some time and money and running it down the strip. Nothing too outrageous, I don't want to remortgage, I just want a sub 18second time on a budget. So for starters I checked the end float earlier and it's 0.12 mm. First question, is this ok for a type iv?
The AP code type 4 of mine has 0.09mm end float & that was in tolerance, can't remember the maximum, is it around 0.15mm?
you youngsters have so much time on your hands these days , i will book day off to watch the strip run let me know !!
Ok, question 2: if I change the camshaft, does this mean changing to solid lifters and therefore new pushrods and valve springs? What sorts so spec or cc will I need to get a sub 18 second time? @Paul Weeding @Joker
You can change the cam to either a solid cam or to another hydro cam. Depends what sort of lifters you want
The lifters, from what I've read must match the cam (ie hydro lifters to hydro specific cam) or solid lifters matching a solid lifter cam and pushrods to suit!
It's more about power output than engine size... but I'd start with a 2056, and you'll need 130/140bhp to do a sub 18 1/4 And yes, you'll need solid lifters, and different pushrods when you change the cam
The options for hydro cams seem limited and there are too many options for solid lifter cams! So I'm looking at a mild performance cam with matching lifters. Is that 130/140bhp with or without a full camping interior. The list so far then, cam, lifters, barrels and pistons. Now your going to tell me the heads aren't man enough
You've got it... heads aren't going to cut the mustard when it comes to power output!! 44x38 Std 2l heads 37.9x33 140 with a camping interior Although, what do you class as full??
Would I get away with 42x36, £189 each at stateside as opposed to £699 a pair for 44x38. I have to be sensible about costs!
42x36 are Porsche 2l valve sizes... That was a 100bhp engine, so it is possible to get to 140, but it'll be tight!!
Your so right The thing is the best bottom end in the world is useless if you use crap heads Headwork costs big money for not much outside bling so a lot of people favour bolt on mods instead Silver if your going to dig deep and want biiiiiiiiiiiiiiig power then go turbo Theres no better bang for buck than forced induction
Speak to James first, those website prices are about 10 yrs old. You're looking more at £500 and £900+ vat If you decide to go solid cam let me know if you want to sell the hydro setup, assuming its all good
I'm going 2056. Paul or Jim will do the heads (Paul preferably if he can fit me in) Web 86a or b getting conflicting messages about which is best suited for a street car (the lighter doka) for which I want longevity and reliability. Weber 44'IDF. I'm buying direct from web cams and getting their matched lifter and pushrods. Let me know if you want too as I'm collecting it myself
Your playing in a different field to me, I'm next door with the poor kids I've got to try and keep things simple/cheap even if it means not getting the sub 18 1/4. Would love to go that route but I'm starting small and just learning as I go, maybe one day. I have been watching @lhu1281's build, maybe rob some of his ideas if it all works out. If as Paul says, solid lifters are the way to go, then yes I'll ditch the hydraulic set up and be up for getting a new cam kit. It's looking like all I have to start with is a case and crank!
