Should be OK as I have a torque multiplier that uses the wheel nuts to work against to just shove it all in a vice and hopefully......
10.10.2015 First time in around 3 years that the van has been sat on its rear wheels.... Put on the floor so I could try and get the castle nut off of the stub axle. Spent several hours and will not budge, but will keep at it. Broke the pole I was using (well a pole within a pole) So will need to find something more sturdier and longer. I had a torque multiplier to get the gland nut off of the flywheel and it can also be used to remove the axle nut, but is for a beetle so can't use on my castle nuts Also, just noticed my Dormobile sticker on the passenger side of the dash. Onwards and upwards.
I knew that, but I thought you'd find out yourself soon enough. You might have to cut them off, they're only a few pounds each.
How best to cut them off of though as only have an angle grinder and don't want to damager the thread etc??
Cutting disc close to the thread, stop a teeny bit short of the bottom. That should weaken it enough to socket it off. If not do another cut.
Mmm - trying to picture this but failing. If I cut with the disc facing the van I will not be able to get deep enough before it stars to cut in the axle? Trying to get a scaffold pipe at the moment so see what happens over the next few days.
That's it, face the van, disc perpendicular to van, cut down the side of the stub axle a mm or 2 from the stub axle until you are nearly through.
You could then break off the bit with a cold chisel and lump hammer, them use same to get the nut turning - it works.
cut it as deep as you dare with a grinder and then use a decent chisel in the groove you just cut, should be enough to get it off
I used a clarke 240 volt impact gun to remove the rear castle nuts Handy bit of kit to have on the shelf
Same as this but if you shop around you can get them cheaper. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench
