NewtoVW/tinworm - Slow restoration thread.

Nice work mate

I popped down to fellows speed shop and had a nose round at how they do the subaru conversions they were very helpful, i will be mainly using their parts to fit mine but doing all the work myself to save a few quid
Still got body work to finish on my van then ill start on the engine swap, currently driving around in the donor impreza

 

will do mate, i haven't touched mine since october due to having to work outside, would love a place like yours to work in
Where abouts in wolves are you?

 

Blimey.. 3 and a half months have passed since I posted on my build..Doesn't time fly when you're having fun )
I guess some of the delay is stripping the 11 coats of paint but it's just about all metal and rust now.(Another excuse is work)It seems like I've tried everything to get the old paint off and the best way in my opinion? Sand blasting.
I've now started cutting the rear lower quarters.. These are my first attempt so a bit scary.I've chosen the rear lower corner panels as these have been done before so I'm not actually cutting 40 year old steel I'm cutting away a poor excuse for a repair.
Rear chassis seems solid apart from one hole that was underneath the only piece of tinware left on the bus.(The only piece that I've removed)
One concern is that the rear of the bus doesn't touch the chassis so I guess I'll have to make a panel to fit and weld into place?

 

Good work! Keep it up!

 

Thanks Andy. Doesn't look like much in the pictures.(Will take more in future)
I'm a bit stuck.. Looking at other resto's on here my rear valance area is different from others I've seen so I'm not sure which inner valance to buy?( Built april'73 but late inner valance looks too wide/seems to fit to the outside edge of the chassis where I have that 4x2 box section)
The previous owner removed most of the rear end,he welded in home made battery trays about six inches too low-now removed along with the angle iron mounting.The home made inner valance which he had bolted on has also been removed along with the home made bolt on sheet steel that he called an engine bay lid.He also welded in both lower rear corners which went unprotected and rusted away-now removed.


I'm trying to get the rear end looking standard again.

 

That's quite a novel approach on the battery tray! There are a few thread with engine bay refurbs (mine has one, search for "Landyn") which have lots of photo's of the bays with the engine removed... might help to find what you need. I know the lip that matches the engine tins is very curvaceous on both the legs and down and across the rear valence. If i don't have a pic in my thread I may have a couple on my PC

 

looking like its not to bad rot wise from what i seen in the pic. looking forward to watching your project. having that work space looks spot on as working outside on a drive way is rubbish.

keep up the good work buddy and the pic coming

 

The first body cut I've ever done.




I didn't get as much done today..Only had one air cut off disc and my grinder packed up.

 

nice joggling ...

 

Thankfully not much rot so far..Worked on the drive until xmas and you're right not much fun.

 

I've been lucky with my van that I don't need to cut into it like this, however, I just wonder whether it may have been better to cut out one corner and use the other as reference and maybe cut the corner then use the wheel arch to align to? I'm sure you've measured twice and once more for luck

Happy to be shot down as I haven't done this before!

 

I haven't done this before either..The cuts on both rear corners have only removed the previous poor repair steel,not any original steel, and the repair panels are a good three inches taller than the cuts so I hope I have a little room for error.(In the big picture above there is a black marker line above the cut..That's where the new panel reaches..Just want to keep as much as possible of the original steel)
My plan.. Probably not a good one is to buy all the panels needed and align/clamp them into position making sure things like the rear lights still fit into their hole..Bear in mind I have a couple of panels that are missing completely (inner/outer rear valance)
I'm not even going to tack them into place until I've got all the panels lined up.

 

Saw this and thought of you...
Have a look on this thread for building up the rear valances and posts.
http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/my-78-moonraker.12422/

 

Thanks Zed.Brilliant pictures on that post (saved it to my watched threads)
The fifth picture on 78-moonraker shows the rear valance sitting on the ends of the chassis not inbetween the chassis legs.
The new panel from JK mesures 114cms..I only have a gap of 101cms.If I weld it to the ends of the 4x2/chassis it will stick out too far.
Still a bit unsure as what to do with the 4x2 box section on the ends of my chassis (one of the 4x2 pieces can be seen in the last but one picture above)

Are these original to my year bus or are they another bodge job from the previous owner? Should I cut them off?

 

Your PO has repaired the chassis with box section, probably deliberately left too long ready to trim back? Or so he could fit the removeable valance? You can see from the linked thread how it should all fit together. How you achieve this or similar is up to you. Whatever you do, don't forget to install captive nuts for the bumper irons.

You can also see from the linked thread that parts of the rear valance stick out beyond the chassis at each side.

 

I did the same as I repaired my chassis legs before I bought the inner valance. I capped off he ends of the chassis rails and fully welded them up to the d post.

I then trimmed off a inch or so from either end of the inner valance so it fitted between the chassis rails and left the bottom of the inner valance on to cap off the d post and close it all off nicely.

 

I guess I'm thinking of cutting the 4x2 box section off the end of the chassis, my only worry is that the PO shortened the chassis for some reason?
(he did many things that are strange)
I'll probably buy the new panel and offer it up, but at £109 it's not something that I want to have to cut/modify.
Ref the captive nuts..I take it thats what the holes in the corner panel are for? So the bolt can pass though to a nut welded inside the chassis leg?
Sorry for the silly questions.Many thanks for the informative answers.