Engine noise, I think. doesn't sound good.

As it's so bad properly needing new case and crank at least I would be temped not to mess with striping it and to just get a recon engine

The engine shop seam to do good budget ones and supplied me a short engine no bother so far touch wood

 

Find put if your heads are good. Take care undoing them. use the correct sequence so you dont risk warping them. Do you have either a Heynes or Bentley manual. Even better get hold of Tom Wilson's "How to rebuild a vw aircooled engine" book. You just need standard tools and a torque wrench for the top end. Loads of very experienced engine builders on here to guide you along if you go for a "short" motor.

New barrels and pistons are easy to get hold of and are about £180 for a top quality set but repro ones can be had for about £120. you will also need a gasket set. price this up for the difference between a long block and short block. Heads are about £170 each (new , GSF).

 

Hi matty
I am going to strip it just for my own satisfaction, I want to see what has happened and it will be good experience.

Hi earlylatebay
I have an Haynes manual so will follow the sequences and take care when stripping. I will also have a look at tom will sons book.
At this moment I am considering all options from complete new to rebuild to beg,steal and borrow and working for sexual and none sexual favours.

Thanks

 

I think zed had a t1 engine with a snapped crank? I wonder if it sounded the same?

Oh just saw Paul already mentioned that!

Good luck with repairs, at least you will know it's been done properly

 

Hi all

What's the best way to split the case. I have removed nuts bolts and it's still holding. I don't want to force with hammer screwdriver so advice appreciated.

Thanks

 

There is a special tool that pushes it apart inside the oil pump hole.

 

2 soft hammers on the tabs eather side of the case but make sure you have all the bolts out including the hidden ones
One below the crank pully end and one somewhere else

 

Hi all

My engine is now stripped down, as suspected the crankshaft has a nice clean break through it.
Now to decide the best way forward.

My first engine strip.

 

Steep learning curve today buddy!

 

Well done for doing it

When you decide please take not of prices of parts.

Some people sell recon (use the term lightly) engines for £600-00

If you do your sums it really does not add up by my estimates.

The new parts come to £300 plus time stripping, cleaning, assembling.

Whatever engine anyone suggests someone will probably have had an issue with that company.

I would consider TES (the engine shop) as they do there own machine work and do a longblock for £750-00

This is not a first hand experience recommendation but the sums add up if doing the work in house !!

Good luck whatever you choose to do

 

If its any consolation, from what I can see in your photographs, the crack started a looong time ago. It started adjacent to the part no 51
Tony

 

Hi all

The engine strip has certainly been an experience. The worst bit was getting the frigging tinware off. Those little screws were a bugger. They could do with being screws with a hex head and slot. I don't know if they do them but if they don't it's my idea and I want 2pence for every screw sold.

Anyway, I don't want everyone to laugh at me for this next thought but is it realistic of me to think I can rebuild the engine. My thoughts are this. Purchase new crankshaft, bearings, seal, valve seals etc etc and rebuild.
The block looks ok, there don't appear to be any other damage. I was round the corner from my house when it happened so hopefully not done to much damage elsewhere.

Let me know your thoughts, I will read with one eye closed.

Thanks

 

It is possible mate, you have the important element, enthusiasm

I would get your case checked out first, If there is nowhere local send it to the engine shop, they can check it and align bore it if necessary. They could provide a crank and bearings also. How are your heads? Check for cracks between plug thread and valves and in between valves. I would change the exhaust valves as a minimum.

 

Of course you can rebuild it. I'd never done one until a couple of years ago, read a couple of books watched a video and loads of help and advice on here got me through my first. Since then I've rebuilt 5 more

 

That looks familiar - here's mine. The chap I bought bus off free admitted hammering it in every gear until it stopped accelerating.

 

What are cranks made of? Are they cast?

 

Pretty sure they are cast steel (as you can weld them)

 

@Wheelhouse my snapped crank motor ran if you played the throttle but it was very rough! I assumed the whole bottom end was a write off and bought a turnkey engine for £50 (those were the days). Someone who couldn't get it to run had fitted a golf diesel instead. Turned out the distributor advance was stuck but nothing else wrong with it. I rebuilt it with new bearings and the barrels/pistons/heads from the snapped crank engine as these were nearly new.

Safe option would be to abandon the bottom end.

 

Hi All

Took the case and shafts to work today and gave them a clean in the parts bath so I could have a closer look for other damage the case appears to be ok, so I think I may price up the cost of the parts required and carry out the work myself. It will be very much out of my comfort zone, but a few people have suggested the tom wilson book on air cooled rebuilds.
I gave the engine guys a call and they said they can have a look at the case if I wish. If anyone knows anyone in nottingham that can have a look i would prefer not to send it away. I am keen to get cracking.
having said the above i am still not sure what to do for the best. someone today offered me a engine for £400.00 was a runner before removing. not sure of the history or spec so in my opinion its not worth it as it may give me problems in days,weeks,months time.

some images below of the clean bits.