god knows what would be found when i do get round to putting the drivers side right could end up cutting it all out and starting again i think this thread has gone a bit off track anyway i think the max budget on one of these roller jobs would be a couple of hundred pounds and the point was a good finish can be a achieved with method to a point where most people would think the van has been resprayed thats me done for the night iam going to bed, night all
after youve finnished rollering it on make sure when you go to the car wash you set the power wash on low pressure ... it might come off in sheets ....enamel is like that.. I bought 5 litres of the stuff for painting the underside, chassis, floor, engine bay etcbut its really just for colur on the underside as quality 2k is a wee bit pricey to use on the underside where the finish cant really be judged easily... But as for the top side, I dont think that I could enamel the body.. It just takes far to long to cure... \if your going for a deliberate ratty look It woyuld be fine in patches, like over repairs to wheelarches and sills, but done in a deliberate fashion that was obviously brushed or rollered so folk knew it wasnt permanent, even though it was If I had to choose and a proper respray was out, then I would roller on some Green TI primer ( 2k and brush roller or spray application but nearly £40 a litre with activator ) then mix up some lightweight fibreglass resin and black Iron powder, and rip around the motor with a brush and roller and get it on there runs and all, leave it to cure and scotch bright or wire wool it chuck on some salt and vinegar and watch it harmlessly rust... More eye catching cheeper and easy to sand off after youve saved a bit for a proper respray... A fake rusty van might net you more wonga than a shiny roller enameled bus .... but like the enamel finish, maybe the fake rust isnt every ones mince and tatties..
Well I've tested this paint before doing the van with it I've had parts painted left out side in the rain ,snow sun all sorts if weather and the panel had no prep and drying time was the problem not it sticking , only one way to find out I rolled primer once it took my roller to bits lol
Ok it has done something but its not fully dry it is a thick coat to be fair may need hardener Still it's very shiny after being out all night too
Theres good info on roller painting on the club80;90 wiki if anyone is interested: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodywork_and_Glass_Roller_painting
I roller painted my van with Rustoleum as it was a rolling resto in which i fixed/replaced/repaired one panel at a time. working in a single garage I was also very limited for space so it was the easiest way to get my van painted and presentable. I have now worked all the way round the van so its all 1 colour and I am happy with the way it looks. I wanted a van that looked good when you see it drive down the street, and with no visible rust! Now it is all at the same level I can look at saving up for a spray job but I need to sort the interior first!
I guess it's all about skill level. If you're able to get a good finish using rustoleum or similar then if it suits you to use that kind of paint and intend keeping your bus til it drops , then it seems like a good alternative. If you want a concourse finish then pay for a pro paint job. I have seen some really bad brush jobs at shows over the years but equally some bad spray jobs. I was always disappointed at any spraying that I ever did using cans as I just couldn't get a decent shine / match. I've never tried painting with enamel but given its self levelling properties it sounds like a cheap alternative for anyone with the skill and time to do it right. If you're gonna keep your bus - use what you are happy with I reckon.
Para, my old boat was coach painted with a roller using international paints about 5 years prior to this picture. It was painted in the open air, in the water and not in a poly-tunnel.
Hello mate did a bit of research on the net and some rustoleum users use a product called Japan drier as a hardner, which is apparently for oil based paints and varnish.
Nice one mate I'll look into that might be worth a go , the paint has dried better now I just think it did not do a lot
Wow 6 pages I have seen some roller paint jobs and they look great and as good as a spray job i feel the main difference is not the finish but the man hours needed to get the finish A good spray paint is hours where as a roller job is days if not weeks If you added up the hours i doubt you will there is much difference in cost between the 2 but a roller job is much easier for a home restorer
Carnt seem to find we're to but it from its like useing the hardener for 2 k is dangerous stuff to breath in
You have all the the panel above that had no prep it was painted strait on to and the shine from one coat is good take some time with this stuff and the result are got I believe para could make a spot on job with this stuff
Baybug paradox the guys using the Japan drier were talking about mixing the paint 50/50 with mineral spirit and using a cap full of drier they were spraying the rustoleum but the principal should be the same i guess maybe with less thiners. they were saying the drying and curing times were shortened quite lot by using the jap drier. Got to be worth a look. Might have to see if I can get hold of some before I crack on with mine
Its nice to hear real views and opinions on this type of paint Many knock it without trying it however you decided it was worth a go and have tried it and are reporting back your findings Its an air dry paint and a simple system the magic is in understanding how it flows and works through experiance The better you can understand and work the paint the less coats and flatting inbetween is needed
