1978 Danbury

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Marc Mears, Sep 17, 2012.

  1. Marc, cheers for posting the bit about the sliding door. I suspected my own seal was on back to front so I double checked with someone local and they confirmed it needed swapping around. They also suggested how it could be done with the door still on the van. Is this how you did it ?
    Slide door back until you can unhook the middle bracket from the track. Then 'walk the the door forward and rest the bottom edge on an axle stand at the right height, but angled away from the van. Then you can take the seal off and spin it around.
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You can spin it round without removing any of the door fittings/unhooking from the track, but you'll need to do as you've been advised to get the seal bedded in the rear channel. A dining room chair is good to rest the rear of the door on, just keep the door horizontal all the time or the top roller can come out of the track.
     
  3. Cheers Zed, that's exactly what I was told.
     
  4. Yep - just spun it round - a bit tricky seating in the rear edge, but it only took 10 mins and better than messing around with the sliding door.
     
  5. Quick update on the last few days – got the driver’s door seal in – and that’s even tighter than the passengers door – spent a good few hours getting it to sit right – but again had to accept an average position – odd that when the door was hung without the seals it sat well – put the seal on and it all goes south – had to shim up the upper front hinge from behind – the gaps are good – but it’s so tight – so I hope by leaving it shut will help them seat better.
    Also got my seat back from the trimmers – they tell me that they were in remarkable condition and only had to tidy them up, and the quality of the work is high – so very happy with them
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    Got the headlining in – was not as bad I as had envisaged – put the rear one in first – then the cab – there are a few little ripples – but I will heat them up and do a bit of fettling to get them out. The bit in the back will be covered but a roof locker so I may get away without having to do that one, but by and large – not too bad – the windows and windscreen go into day – that is costing me £150.00 but he tells me he will be gluing them in as well so there will be a water tight seal (I would have assumed that they would be water tight anyway without glue / sealant -
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    So the head lining cost £80 to make and £60 for materials and 4 hours to do - well still have a bit more to finish off.
     
  6. Those seats look lush:thumbsup:

    If you have the good quality seals they will bed in over time dude
     
  7. Just been home to sort out the 2 lads who are putting in the windows - they are having a mare- used the seals from VWH but had problems getting them to sit flush(mine is a panel van) - so using there own seals.
    They are telling me that if I did them my self there was no chance - or it would have been a disaster - I agree.
    Its the 2 rear side ones that are the buggers.
    Any how - had to pay an extra £50 for there seals - so it totals up to £200 for the windows - but I will send back 3 seals to VWH - the 4th one has been cut to fit - but then taken out so I will burn that one!!! - unless some one wants it.
     
  8. The windows are all in and all sit well in the frames – glad I did not do it – it would have taken ages by me.
    So cleaned up the windows and put in the sun roof, also put in the new 12v led light in that will run off the leisure battery.
    So my list of things to do is.
    1) Take engine out and put in the rear tin ware
    2) Put tin ware seal in
    3) Link the heater cables on to the heat exchangers
    4) Connect the reversing light wire to the gear box
    5) Connect the live and starter cables to the starter
    6) Take off the belly pan so the rock and roll bed can be fitted
    7) Put the upper bump stops on (could not do them off as they were arms were tight up to the stops
    8) Paint and fix front and rear bumpers
    9) Tighten up the steering box adjuster ( a bit too much play- but it may be normal)
    10) Put in radio/sat nav and speakers
    11) Put in sound proofing
    12) Finish of wax oiling
    13) Plug all holes in cab and cargo area with grommets
    14) Put in 12 v leisure wiring and 3 12v sockets
    15) Put in 240 v consumer unit and plugs etc.
    16) Fix all interior panels – inc wood work to window bottoms
    17) Fit rubbers to cab floor and over wheel arches
    18) Fit rear mirror and sun visors
    19) Fit seats
    20) Fit seat belts
    21) Paint pop up roof top
    22) Fit pop up roof with new seals
    23) Fit engine air filter
    24) Connect fuel line
    25) Connect throttle cable
    26) Fit ply floor
    27) Fit vinyl flooring
    28) Fit new cabinets with sink and rock and roll bed
    29) Drill hole in floor for the table.
    30) Get the tracking alignment checked
    31) Get the headlight alignment checked
    32) Oil in gear box
    33) MOT
    Oh dear, a bit more than I expected- once you start putting pen to paper the list gets longer and longer – and I was hoping that it will be done by the end of the month!!!- looks like mid-April.
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    Sunroof in
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    A bit of snagging to sort out in the corner
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    I think I will change this so you can see other folk on the road
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    Looks un finished - with nuts showing - are there any covers?
     
  9. They should have little black plastic caps over them marc
     
  10. Super work on the doors, I am avidly watch your build up as I will be doing the same in a few weeks time and mostly haven't got a clue where to start. Its nice to see somebody else tackling the jobs and giving such useful advice and photos, Thanks.
     
  11. Great Resto Thread , Keep up the good Work fella
     
  12. This weekend was cold cold cold – put the gas burner on – but never really got warm – but managed to get some nice bits done.
    After putting in the head lining in last week, there was a bit of a fold in the cab roof, and managed to get that 80% better, got some alli angle trims from work and fixed them to the pop up top frame to cover the raw edged of the headlining and give a good finish – these trims bent quite easily, and are self-adhesive with special extra stick backs – but I put in a couple of pop rivets just to ensure they never move.
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    Next was the cargo floor – decided to use the 12mm solid rubber that we had left over from gym weights floor – this stuff is very heavy – anyhow cut it in the recess of the cargo floor as the outer edged are raised, this then brought up the levels.
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    Next was to cut a 5 foot section of 9mm wbp ply and fix it with a few stainless steel screws – I decided to put the joint at the rear as I think that the bed will cover the joint – used a bit of filler to the joint – will sand off tonight before fitting the vinyl floor.
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    Next were the window sills – got the old ones out, and were all in quite a sad state – the only one that was any good was the middle one – although I could use the rear one as a template.
    Fitted the middle one with ease – then got out my router and cut out 2 new rear sills from some dark wood bamboo I had left over from my kitchen floor.
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    Fitted the driver’s rear – and by that time it was 5.30 so it was in for tea and top gear – only to find it was “best off” – so fell asleep on the settee.
     
  13. Finished off the passenger side window sill – had to cut down the stainless steel self-tapping screws that hold the softwood bottom in place so it would not interfere with the sling door mechanism
    Then it was putting in the 12 v wiring in with the outer cable protection sleeve – I have put a feed to the area where the fridge will go and another to the area between the sink and the bed – I will be putting in a 12 v cigarette lighter sockets at both ends – my idea is that most things now run on USB power – so I have got some 12v USB adaptors to plug into the cig lighters – looking at them there are a few different types – some have 1a charging and some have 2.1a charging
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    The 1 amp is for phones and the 2.1 amp is for ipads and tablet pcs- so I got one that does both.
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    I am reckoning that most entertainment will be USB power driven-and come from tablet pc or ipads.
    Also with ipads now having 4g I will not need to put in a TV – as you will get everything you need form a tablet pc – TV – internet- etc. etc.
    Also I have got a few USB plug in L.E.D lights that are used on laptops that will come in handy for low light or reading in bed!!! – They are so low watts the battery will last forever.
    I just need to sort out a point in the pop up and another in the side card of the passenger side.
    Ran out of gas at 9.30 – it got so cold it was like ice station zebra – so went in to warm up.,
     
  14. Pic of the new floor
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    Lofty likes this.
  15. Just caught up with this resto. Great work, that's one fab looking bus!
     
  16. Looking sweet Marc.
     
  17. Thanks exuptoy - not long now I hope- but im a way next week so its going to be mid April before its on the road.

    Last night put the side panels in and filled up the voids with rock wool
    Routed the 12v tails to the back of the camper and decided to make a small mounting bracket for the small fuse box and master switch for the 12v stuff, and sprayed it with the crackle finish that was left over from the dashboard.
    Mounted the 240v consumer units as well – forgot to take picture of it – but will post tomorrow.
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  18. Looking really good Marc.

    Mines an ex-panel van, can i ask how you attached the wood under the windows.

    Cheers, Brendon
     

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