Getting there though Marc, I'm glad you've put that up as mine was stripped Jeremy Clarkson style so I've nothing to go on, as theres probably bits missing aswell.
After putting in the dash and seeing that it looked tired, and after consideration I decided to go to Halfords and get a spray can of crackle finish paint. Was totally unsure of what the finish would be over spraying crackle on top of the VW lumpy finish but I decided to take the plunge and if it went wrong I would just have to take the dash out and start again. Anyhow – masked up the dash (that took 1 hour) and then did a pre clean and laid on 3 very light coats – and I have to say when I looked at it this morning – it looks fantastic- and has a good even finish The picture was taken last night so some areas look a bit glossy as the paint was wet. Put the speedo cable in – getting the cable through the rubber seal in the hub as a bit of fun – but with a bit of heave ho – it went in. Having put the rear tailgate seal on and fitted the door – I noticed light grinning through the swage line – so a bit of fettling there with the seal.
Took off the masking to the dash and it has come out well - has a satin finish - but a good overall Sliding Door Night My mate came round to help me man handle the sliding door on – went on ok to start with then became more difficult as the night went on doing the adjustments. My first problem was that the new lower repair section that I put on the door (and looked fine when I offered it up before paint) seams to tuck in too much at the front edge. So it snags on the new bottom seal edge as I close the door– after 20 min of adjustment it still would snag and not let the door shut – so it was either bend the bottom of the door and most probably crack the paint (or filler) or cut the seal back – so cut the seal back I did – that worked and when the door was shut it was a good tight fit. It still needs a bit of tidying up Next problem is that every time I shut the door the new seal lip on the B post wants to go on the outside of the door – so I have to tuck it back under every time the door is shut– It is working of sorts and the fit is average – top gap is 4mm – bottom gap is 6mm the B post gap is 6mm and is a out of line – but the C post gap is 3mm (and that’s a bit tight) I have tried to move the door forward – but it’s up to the limits, also I think that the seals are too tight and the door needs a big slam to get it shut – Gap on the C Post GAP ON THE B POST Left it shut last night to see if that helps compress the seals (I in hope) Well I think the week end will be devoted to getting it working better and doing a load tinkering. I have seen a few folk talk about a Bentley page on Adjustment – if anyone can post me a link I would be grateful as I can’t find it on the net.
Looking good tho, I've just finished welding my sliding door an was worried that it might be an issue once painted keep at tho. Dash looks well tidy as well dude!
Sorry Marc Bentley is in unit bit there are some tips here that may sort you out. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_keywords=sliding door adjustment&search_forum=5
The seal sticks out at the b-post? Maybe you have the seal back to front? It should be fitted with the big flap on c-post sticking out forwards, small flap at the front also facing forwards.
Cos im thick – and after looking at comments from Zed – I had in fact fitted the sliding door seal on the wrong way – Doh. Fortunately I did not have to take the door off to spin it around – I had the flappy bit at the front – and that bit should have been the rear edge seal – Spent ½ day messing around trying to get it to shut with ease – well that mission ended with me frustrated – it opens up with a nice strong spring – but to shut it you have to slam it – or you have to close it with the handle and by placing your hand at the rear of the door in the swage line. Also I have adjusted the hell out of it and the gaps are poor – top right and bottom left have a gap of 2mm – and the top left and bottom right have a gap of 5mm – I am hoping that when the trim and window goes in it will give it a bit more mass, and well help (I think I’m kidding myself) So after that and thinking best to go onto something else, other wise I may take a hammer to the sliding door so I decided to put the cab door seals on – now reading the blogs everyone is saying that the cheap seals are rubbish and you won’t close your doors, but I did not know if the seals were the cheap ones or the good ones. – so with that in mind I got out my new seals and took the passenger door off and fitted the seal – Surprise! the door would not shut - took a note of the part number and went in for the day having achieved very little - then went on the net and found out that I have the rubbish ones – fortunately VWH will take em back and I have order up the new seals – The door that don't shut - Just to confirm that its always better to check you have the right stuff before you start the job- unlike me!!!! On a positive note – spoke to a chap on the forum and I have purchased a good condition rear tin ware engine cover – that came and I cleaned it up ready for paint. Oh yes – does anyone know if there is a seal that goes around the front wheel arch – there is a channel that is situated between the wheel arch and the outer panel – I have asked VWH and they don’t know – if not, can anyone help me and tell me where I can get one Thanks Marc
It's not a seal, it's actually where the wheelarch carpet goes. You tuck the end of it in there, then fold the carpet over the top, gently tap down that edging strip and it traps the edge of the carpet in that channel, holding it in place. Most of them are rubber mats, but I think the VW cab carpet manufacturers might also make more plush carpet ones.
Finish on the dash looks great. Very factory. I know what you mean about the door seals. My drivers door won't shut without slamming the cr@p out of it.
Thanks Zebedee & baybrimingham As I sell carpets - I will find something that works thanks again marc
The slider can take a bit of adjusting! Maybe it'll shut better when it's straighter in the hole. Wether the back needs to come up of the front down only you can see. Yes those cab door seals are cheapy ones. The bottom corner seen in your pic will be rock hard if you squeeze it. The good ones compress easily. When you get the two together you'll be amazed at the difference. Both cab and slider seals will benefit from being left slammed shut as much as possible.
Putting the slider seal in wrong seems quite common! Good luck with the adjustment though, they are a pig to do!
Did a bit more on the sliding door – I recon that every hour I spend I get it 5% better – so another 9 hours and it should be perfect!!! Cleaned out all the normal brown grease I had put in the channels as it just looked like an old scrapper, and put in white lithium grease – Put on the cover that hides the track and was less than delighted with the fit – I seem to be going into the twilight zone because when I dry fitted it – it looked fine – I think the addition of the seal has pushed it out a bit and caused it look like rubbish fit. As I am waiting for the door seals I decided I would start putting in the aluminium surround and the inner seal to the passenger door. I think that that job would have been easy if I had small fingers – but mine are like Cumberland sausages and getting them down the gap to push the aluminium trim in was a hard task – the inner rubber proved more problematic - I had to do that clip by clip with a big screwdriver – and that was awkward and slow, the clips are dammed tight. I was not sure which one to do first – so I did the outer (aluminium) then the inner – it worked ok, but I wonder if doing it the other way round is easier-? After that I decided to do some nice bits – so on with the door handles and the VW badge on the back – although when I looked there were no holes pre drilled – so I assume that the addition of the Volkswagen badge on the back is not original – but it looks good. Got out the window metal bits (1/4 light) and cleaned and pained them up ready for fitting tonight – that was it for the night 10.30 and time for a cup of tea. Booked in the window fitting for 21st March – I have decided not to do in myself – I have tried it in the past and could never get it to look right – Trimmer has done the seats and the headliner so need to pick them up. Also I have some rubber left over from a contract and I think I will use it for sound insulation on the floors and doors. 12mm rubber 3mm rubber
Feed the inner scraper in 1 clip at a time starting at the back and it's quite easy. You'll struggle getting the 1/4light in now you've fitted the inner. Don't forget to get the glass ratting about in the bottom of the door before you fit the 1/4light. First thing is the window winder mech if it's out. That rubber stuff looks useful.
Its amazing how much time fitting all the little bits back to a bus takes Keep at it dude its coming along a treat How did you find the fit of those new black door handles and locks?
Cab window and seals, last night was dedicated to getting them in. Soooooooooooo Cleaned up and greased the window mechanism. Spent hours working out where to cut the seals Got the ¼ light in and all the seals – put in the main window seal and then looked back and had a fag knowing I only have to put in the window mechanism in a bolt the window to it. Well much to my dismay (to put in nicely) I realised that I had to take everything to bits as the window winder mechanism has to go in before the ¼ light metal stay, and it was 9.45. So I had wasted 3 ¾ hours for nowt!!! Decided I was not going to bed until I had done the thing – so took it all to bits – got it all in and finished at 11.30 – the window fit is good and snug – had to use a big screwdriver just to open up the gap a bit for the felt seal – cleaned it up as it was coved in fairy liquid. So anyone who has forgotten the sequence to put the cab door window and seals in--- here is it – 1) Clean all bits – paint if required, and apply white lithium grease to the window mechanism spring. 2) Put main window in and let it rattle around. 3) Bolt in the window winder mechanism. 4) Fit aluminium outside trim and integrated seal 5) Fit the inner window seal. 6) Fit the ¼ light front metal surround and screw in at the top. 7) Put in the ¼ upright from below without the seals – using plenty of fairy liquid – you will probably scratch it. – When in, pull it back at an angle so you can get the ¼ light window in. 8) Put the ¼ light window seal in – start at the top so the seal is level with the end of the metal and push it in place all the way round, it goes in quite deep, cut the seal at the end of the metal and then it may be worth pushing the ¼ light upright into position just to check you have cut the correct amount off 9) With plenty of washing up liquid put the ¼ light window in – using a car body plastic filler spatula to ensure the rubber is not snagged. 10) Fit the upright front rubber – you can offer up the ¼ main stay and mark with a pencil the size- 11) When fixing in the ¼ light main stay make sure up push it up nice and tight – I also got a small screwdriver and put it through the lower hole that it bolts to – to give a bit more leverage upwards as your hands will be full of washing up liquid. 12) Bolt the ¼ light main stay in – and screw in the small screw at the top. 13) Fit the ¼ light rear felt – mine was a snug fit – but I applied a bit of contact adhesive to it – don’t let it dry – put the felt seal in the wet glue because if you let it dry it will either snag on the side, or just peel off the contact as you put the felt seal in. 14) Put the 4 no main window felt metal seal clips in – gently tap home. 15) Starting at the ¼ light top – put in the main window felt seal – using a rubber hammer to ensure it’s seated all the way home – ensuring you have a nice tight fit at the rounded corner. – The felt seal may have to be cut down – I have left mine long into the door. 16) Looking at the felt seal – see if there is a constant gap all the way around – if not, get I nice big screwdriver and use it to open the gap. 17) Wind the window up and see if it sits home all the way to the top – if not use the screwdriver again and open the felt seal. 18) Clean off the door – and when you go in and wash your hands they should come up looking good as they will be covered with dry washing up liquid
Drivers door ¼ light and wind up window – Well after learning how to do it last night I managed to get it done in 2 ½ hours – cut one of the seals 2 mm short – but I have a cunning plan involving some Mipa black polyurethane that is used for sealing windows. Wire bushed the tin ware and applied some Kurst to them ready for repair tonight. As I have no thin tin to weld – I will use 1mm and just spot weld the patches on the top And my new soft expensive grey cab door seals have come – so we will see if they are as good as folk say. Oh yes – perfected the way to put in the inner window seal that has the continuous metal clips – starting at the back – each bit that clips in has a long length and a short length that has a return on it – so locate the long bit in the hole first – then with a small screwdriver , behind the rubber push the shorter side together and at the same time use the screw driver to push in at the same time, and every time you get one in just manipulate the rubber to ensure its sit right.
Passenger door seals went in last night – the new grey rubber ones are 100% better, so as everyone says just don’t bother with the £20 ones you have to go with the £50 ones. So – put the seals in and spent a good hour getting the door to align up so I got good shut lines Quite even door gaps But it was a bit of a compromise because I could do with getting the bottom of the door in a bit – but that then snags on the rubber and puts too much pressure to close the door. I think I will leave them for a month or so and then have another go to see if the rubber gives any. A bit out too much - but not too bad ,for the mow Also put on the wing mirror – so that door is all but done. Made some patches, and did the best I can to follow the contours for the engine tin ware – would have liked to welded then it but as the metal is so thin I would have blown through it and it would have looked a mess – so opted for the next option – pop rivets – as it happed it looked ok when I pained it up – I will keep my eyes out for a good second hand one.
Most people build up the 1/4light then fit as a unit to the door. That must have been difficult doing it in situ! Also the inner scraper is easy and requires no tools. Start at the back, feed in the loops one at a time and they click in easy. Too late now I know!
great work on the door build up ....you got there eventually I had a hell of a time adjusting my slider and building my cab doors!!! glad its not just me that finds them a pain. my slider and cab door rubbers have been fitted for a couple of months, they remain closed for a lot of the time so they are just starting to bed in nicely keep up the good work mate :0
