vw t2 1974 restoration

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Dean mitropoulos, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. @JamesLey or @zedders, Does the top of the track sit level with the top of the middle sill how in your photo it might be for preparation you have it higher. @zedders said the threshold strip goes on top of the middle sill only but does that mean the top of the upper track level with the top of the sill and the threshold welds on top of the top track? tumblr_inline_odgl9cX8WJ1qae7qe_500.jpg
     
  2. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    The middle sill on the door side originally included the bottom and top track, but the repair panel available only includes the bottom track. The above pic is of me lining up the repair panel with the remnants of the old middle sill (which includes the top track) so that I can cut the new middle sill to the correct height.

    This is a test fit of the middle sill (both old and new). You can see the top track sits directly under the threshold (it's spot welded to it):
    [​IMG]

    Once I was happy with the gap between the two tracks (test this with your door runner, I took measurements of the required gap before cutting anything out) I welded the middle sill repair to what was left of the old middle sill:
    [​IMG]

    This is the underside of the threshold, the line of holes is where the top of the track is welded to:
    [​IMG]

    The only reason I removed the middle sill was because it was in such poor condition that I needed to remove it to repair it properly. It's a much easier job if you only cut out the rot from the middle sill rather than completely removing it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2021
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  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    James's last sentence says it all for me.
    Don't cut the threshold out/don't chop it up.
    Don't destroy the irreplaceable upper part of the track/sliding door runner.
    Leave the two parts joined if remotely possible.
    Having always followed my rules I can't help but I've saved myself months of frustration and lining things up around the sliding door over the years.
     
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  4. I know and agree 100%. it is too late to go back so I have no choice now but to repair it.
    do you think I can do it?
     
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  5. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Anything's repairable with enough time.
    The important thing is that your sliding door still fits after all of this work so keep trial fitting things as you go. Don't just weld it all in and hope things will align.
     
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  6. yes you are right. this is what I need to focus on for now. Any thoughts?
     

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  7. anyone have any idea how to attach the a pillar connector? IMG_0938.jpeg
     

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  8. May someone please take the a pillar measurements just to confirm mine and across ways please
     
  9. anyone want to help please?
     
  10. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    I don’t have my windscreen out to measure this but you may want to be a bit more specific as to what measurements you’re after so someone with their windscreen out can help.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I think when fitted that would be the width directly under the gutter? Not easy to measure when it's all together.
     
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  12. I replaced my sliding door track about 20 years ago. The part I bought included the threshold, middle rocker and track. In hindsight I would have just repaired what was rusty.

    I used small nuts and bolts, clamps, mole grips etc to hold it while I fit and adjusted the sliding door. I made sure everything lined up and the door shut properly before welding it all up. I did the rear quarter at the same time but left the b pillar and front arch intact as a reference. Bottom outer rocker went on last.
     
  13. I was just after the measurement for the side of the a pillar just under the gutter. If anyone wants it could be easier to take a photo with the tape measure under the gutter on the a pillar outer skin as I think the guy made mine too wide at the top. Now that I have finished the a pillar, it is ready to be welded in place and seems to line up well with the face panel, the dash board and the gaps look about right.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2021
  14. I was just after the measurement for the side of the a pillar just under the gutter. If anyone wants it could be easier to take a photo with the tape measure under the gutter on the a pillar outer skin as I think the guy made mine too wide at the top. Now that I have finished the a pillar, it is ready to be welded in place and seems to line up well with the face panel, the dash board and the gaps look about right.
     
  15. squares do not look the best and the two panels do not line up 100%. The front face still fits around it and the a pillar top skin still fits. I will try to weld it more and grind it more. Any thoughts. It was very hard to make up
     

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  16. long afternoon tonight. a pillar done, needs painting and then to be plugged welded together the two skins.
     

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  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Amazing work Dean.
    To be honest you're not getting much help because you're blazing the trail yourself. People in the future will be asking YOU how to fix this stuff with no available parts. :thumbsup:
     
  18. Thank you @zedders . This was a hard one but i had no choice but to do it. I know the squares don't look to great but I am very happy with the over all look. I will try to get it painted this weekend and plugged welded.
     
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  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The squares alignment, you'll notice... but nobody else will because as you open the door, it's leading edge covers them. I know that's not the entire point. P1010373_zpsbsucxmy2.jpg
     
  20. Lovely door cards!
     

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