vw t2 1974 restoration

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Dean mitropoulos, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. That is really nice work...really complex and difficult to fabricate something like that. No one will notice the squares.
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    They were on offer at JK or Heritage because... I have no idea, I think they were £45/pair when other colours were twice the price. Lucky I painted my bus green.
     
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  3. Thanks everyone, the squares still do look good enough from the inside and at least it will look some what oriognal. the reason i had to put it in was for the a pillar profile otherwise the two skins will be flush when spot welded.
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I make that more like 65mm not 73mm and it's actually quite curved, convex along your tape not flat as your photo. In fact the whole length has a curve across it. Good luck!

    edit to add that the gutter stops short so perhaps my tape was higher which would make your part even further out but as you have it in your other photo held onto the other side pillar, the amount it looks like being too large by seems realistic. Hope that makes sense.

    In short I think you are right and it's too big but it should also be slightly curved x-section not flat.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2021
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  5. Thanks @zedders. you are right. This means that the non windscreen side (side where tape measure head is butted to) should be curved in so the distance is about 10mm less or 65
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'd have taken a pic but it's covered in lichen and gunk. Yes basically. Not sure you'll loose enough in the curve by just bending it though you might. I ought to clean it up and photo. Maybe someone else reading has their bus more to hand and clean!

    On another note I seem to recall coming across a fair amount of brazing where all those layers interleave at the top. :thinking:
     
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  7. Yes they were spot welded and then around the seams were brazed. I think I should plug weld and weld it. there is brazing in many place. cab floor, rear wheel tubs front panel and other places
     
    Zed likes this.
  8. stripping the paint of and now I discover I cannot put it into reverse gear. I could before but is it because i need the start the engine and hold the clutch in to make it go into reverse
     
  9. Any one know how I should paint the inside of the two a pillar skins before I plug weld them together
     
  10. does this look safe and good for the kombi?
     

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  11. If you mean those blocks of wood as axle stands then no, it could result in a very squishy death. If you were dead set on it though, at least move the wood under the main tubes of the beam and not under the end plate as it’s a lot of weight on a small surface area otherwise
     
  12. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    For peace of mind I'd just stick it on some proper axle stands if you're working under there (I wouldn't dream of sticking my head under there without them).


    Regarding the paint inside the two a pillar skins, see my previous posts a few pages back. I used epoxy on the inside of all panels, with a weld through primer near the welded joint (you still need bare metal where your actual weld is). Cavity wax everything after you've painted the van.
     
  13. ok thanks, I may buy some jack stands and put on the main tube. do you think this arrangement can damage the end of the tube?
     
  14. thanks, i will epoxy base coat and top coat it, then weld through primer on the weld seam and plug weld in to bare metal
     
  15. I went through your posts and had a look. (your will never rust again) I am a bit confused by epoxy as their is so many different types and systems to use on the inside of panels, 2K, 1K, primer coat then top coat...... what product do you use for the insides as i know it does not have to be the same system as the outside exposed panels
     
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  16. I wouldn’t myself no as it could potentially start crumpling metal. I’m sure it’s probably strong enough, but I wouldn’t risk it
     
  17. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    I used an epoxy mastic product on my bus (https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/epoxy-mastic). It's a 2 part paint that's fine to be left as is without topcoat.
    On my baja resto I'm just using a 2k epoxy primer from my local paint shop which should be fine left as is without topcoat on the insides of panels (it's just to try and seal the metal and help it last a bit longer).
     
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  18. making progress
     

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  19. still needs sone work near the gutter but mostly done. The top is flat but you can see the paint under it but it will get cleaned one day when it is time for the spray
     

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