vw t2 1974 restoration

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Dean mitropoulos, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    ^ Thats the chaps name I was referring to earlier.
     
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  2. DubCat

    DubCat Sponsor

    If you lived closer I'd swap you a new harness for some upholstering :)
     
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  3. I’m down in Australia. Would love to get it from you guys anyway. What’s the US company called?
     
  4. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Its not a US company, the reference to the US relates to Iain Burns / Aircooled Auto Elec, here in the UK, shipping a wiring loom out to California for Mic Bergsma's restoration on Kona which is detailed in his YouTube channel.
     
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  5. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

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  6. thanks, I'll message him and see.
     
  7. ok so reassembling it now and got the bulk of it done so far. have to finish off the wiring, steering column and door cards. door gaps also good after the body work. having issues getting the gear shifter in place to line up good have the gear box it and all new bushings but when I try to line up the plate with the spring and screw it into place, it becomes stiff and 2nd gear and revers dont work to well. seems like im missing. something as was better before hand years ago.
     
  8. so the issue is the new 6 rib pin that comes out the gearbox is longer to the coupling that is under the front side needs to be pushed back more and the hole drilled back to make the knuckle under the floor centre of the cut out. mine is all the way at the front.
     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    6 rib into early late bay - same as me. Yes the linkage needs adapting shorter where the two parts connect under the cab. The whole gearbox is longer. I suggest you get your engine fitted first, that will push the gearbox forward even more.
    Here's something else to look out for - our buses (compared to later ones) have an extra or differently positioned top hat section close to the rear coupler. The rear coupler is pushed forward by our 6 rib box and can foul the top hat. You may also find with the engine fitted the box contacts the torsion beam which is... undesirable.

    What I did was pry the lot back away from the torsion tube and tighten the front gearbox clamp. That was fine until the fitting loosened and it slipped forward. I didn't notice. The result was that the coupler fouled the top hat in 4th preventing the gear engaging fully. There was no sign of that until it started jumping out of 4th. My engine has a lot of torque and that gear needs to be fully engaged. I had to have my lovely box rebuilt all because of this. I've since bent the top hat out of the way using molegrips, it didn't take much.
    IMG_20170422_125517055.jpg
     
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  10. T
    Thanks, engine is in and running so have to drill for front coupling 12mm back so when in neutral the knuckle is centre
     
  11. Anyone have a photo or know where it get the part of if I can make it my self. It is for the dash board leaver that connects to the fresh air vent flaps. Mine never had the linkage and can’t find any information about it. It’s the linkage part
     
  12. Louey

    Louey Moderator

  13. Louey

    Louey Moderator

  14. Struggling to upload a photo but what connects to the leaver at the need of the triangular control assembly and the the flaps
     
  15. I need to make up a radio mount for the original radio. Mine went missing and just seeing if anyone can post a picture of there’s so I can get an idea. I will probably need to buy a single din hosing but then need to mount that.
     

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