vw t2 1974 restoration

Thank you, I accidentally contacted someone about buying some parts and he turned out to be Miki, the owner of Indian automotive, he quoted me about, 5 days so $5,000 to reassemble my kombi exclude to rebuild the motor and gearbox for under $8,000. I have told him I have all the parts brand new and original parts. this will save about $10,000. I am planing to go after when the painting gets finished. First i am getting it ready to be sent for dustless/sandblasing and have a bit of the body that is remaining finished off.

 

That’s great to hear!!

 

finally restarted the rebuild restoration. It was transported to another garage with more space to work in.

 

both a pillars and b pillars had significant movement and were out of alinement.
as of now he has told me the two a pillars and bottoms of the b pillars are re aligned, door gaps perfect and dog legs on. I will go up in two weeks and see it and post some pictures. the resolution of the pictures when he texts them to me are really poor even though his phone is new so not sure why. still needs more work on the front end eg connectng pillar back support and bulk head sections behind the b pillar. the main thing is the structure is aligned perfectly and door gaps are perfect.

Also see all the bracing I was lacking....

 

Good to see you are still at it Dean

 

I would never give up. Ed is doing an amazing job he is making the impossible, work.

 

@Zed you were right to say that the front section can move or drop if you remove the doglegs and the front face panel. mine had moved quit a fair bit considering the air box and windscreen support were also removed and no bracing was put in place to hold it together. I think we discussed it in, @lovedubs post or somewhere else a while ago.

All sorted now. it was a hard task re alining it all. the front nose panel and deformation panel is only clamped it place however this can now conform the front is correct since the doors close perfectly and all gaps are good. The next section is to replace the end sections of the floors and the wheel hubs. Then it can be rustproofed, pained all welded to together. the front will also need more work like around the air box lip and roff corner however at least this proves the a pillars are good and the front is square.

 

air box skin off to take the dent out of it. the whole side panel will need replacing. it has years of bog, paint and rust on it. it also has accident damage along the bottom. the accident damaged the rear panel at the tail lights so that may need to get replace half way down.

 

before shot with dent in it. I can't leave it with the dent. It needs no be done right. see all the tectyl rust protection. I am painting it everywhere. the inner panels are getting primed and painted side I can because I have access to it. even in the roof channels and the down the pillars I will get the spray nozzle with the long tube to rust proof it all.

 

seems like some of my postings have been removed?

 

The site had to be restored from a backup I believe due to hackers having a go at the site.

 

anyway front all done.

 

makes sense. is that why @hailfrank said something about not reseting your password if it says to reset it. I will post some more of my previous photos later. still need to do the top of the a pillar outer skins and the two front corners outer roof skin. it looks like lining up the sliding door will be a near impossible job and a lot harder than the front end.

 

Yes that's it.
Looks like your guy is doing a cracking job there too.

 

He is doing a amazing job that is factory look. Tf only I had know him a year or two ago. I will have more of a part to play when it comes to stripping all the paint and priming it. Then all the mechanicals.......... with the wiring I may be better of getting a pre made loom as I think will be a disaster of a job for me to make it my self. I could not plug weld that good to be honest.

 

He's doing a cracking job there, but I'm not seeing the usual late bay bumper captive nuts welded into the deformation panel?
I think I can see a pair at each of the extremes left and right though... what bumper are you fitting?

 

I think these Brazilian ones are the only ones available now, need to weld some captives in or your favourite rivinuts!

 

no i'm going to weld in nuts once I place the bumper on top to get it centre. He said rivet nuts would be good but I would rather weld nuts by making the hole the same size as the nut and welding it in flush. then spray primer and tyctle.

 

my sliding door slides better than ever before. I also don't need 8mm worth of spacers. I used another door as it is the correct for my year model. the door needs a lot of work to itself however this confirms that the sills and tracks are tacked it correctly so they can be plug welded in. the sliding door was harder than the a pillar.

 

half of the floor welded in. A donor side panel.