Type 4 race engine build, all are welcome

So, its time to start building a new engine but which way do I go? I've failed to get this off the ground in my last 3 attempts so I've ended up sticking with relatively stock motors and have sold off all the performance parts I'd accumulated, but this time I'm committed to emulate @Paul Weeding and @holmsen to get a USB sticker.

But which way to go, there are various options of engine size. I want to stay simple so normally aspirated and carbs instead of injection.

So far I have a few engines and cores to choose from;

1700 914 80hp engine, good runner so i'd rather not strip it.

1800 AP camper engine, only difference from stock is the 1800 'big valve' heads. This was my first engine build and its good for my camper.

1800 AN 914/411 - has the big valve heads, needs tearing down and rebuilding. Condition unknown but all looks to be pretty good. It appears its never had a rebuild.

A couple of 2 litre CJ cases, I think I have 2 2litre cranks and rod sets. A few knackered 2 litre heads etc. I have about 10 1700 heads all need rebuilding, a few standard 1800 heads which need rebuilding, also boxes full of 17/1800 barrels, pistons, cranks and rods and a few 1700/1800 cases so plenty to choose from to go down the rebuild route.

I have a set of 40mm dells which are on the 1700, 2 pairs of Solex single barrel 40mm carbs, and I've just bought a set of weber 44 idf which came off a 2007cc. Exhaust wise I have the vintage speed which is apparently good up to 2.4 and the LAP exhaust I have from Paul Weedings fish and either stock h/x's or 'j' tubes.

I want to be left with a useable street car, I don't intend to use the engine continuously for racing, I want to try for a sticker, have some fun, hopefully win a race or 2 in the process.

So, do I stay small, use the AN motor as a basis for a 1911, have the heads sorted out stick the big carbs on and hope that the crewcab is light enough and quick enough to get me a bronze, a relatively cheap option, or do I use the 2 litre and build up from there (2056 or bigger?) still use a pair of the big valve heads big carbs etc? I don't really want to spend a fortune on machining so I see my biggest expense will be the heads.

 

I havent a clue, but have Bookmarked it
Hopefully I will learn something

 

If on a budget, make a 2056 with the 1800 heads. will give you aprox 120-130 on the flywheel.
Should be enough to get you a bronze sticker

 

Bigger, bigger, bigger. As big as you can.
I know nowt about race engines, but I'd start with a 2L one - more stroke = bigger possibilities?

 

are you allowed to change diff ratios?

 

My 1911 with the big valve heads, cam, port & polish and twin 40s dynoed at 102 BHP without quite using the full 5400 rpm (it was quite new). That's with a standard exhaust. So maybe with a proper exhaust and once it's loosened up, 110 BHP is possible but that would be about it. On the basis of acceleration runs, I don't reckon it would run near 18 seconds, but then it's a Westy with full interior. If @holmsen reckons you need 120+ BHP in the Doka then you're going to need to go bigger than 1911.

 

Does any use nitrous? Or is that a no no? What about an period supercharger?

Apologies if these are daft questions - unsure what the regs are for drag racing, am presuming that's what's meant my race?

 

I am looking forwards to this thread developing. I would have thought building a nice grunt motor out of the 1800 would be fine if you weren't that bothered by the USB thing. Imagine the scene if you finish everything and thunder down the strip in a mighty 19s. "Bum, should have gone bigger". I would love to have a go at what you are doing but don't have the space for a build. If you want that sticker then I thing its got to be "go big or go home"

 

Check with @Paul Weeding. I didn't ask questions, he knew what I wanted and I knew he would sort it himself.

Edit: Just checked on the invoice and it's a Eurorace II grind.

 

What did your 1800 do on the dyno?

 

From memory it was about 82bhp but it pulls lovely and smooth and is ever so drivable. Sounds like Paul did a fantastic job on yours. I am not that sure of the innards of mine. LP rebuilt it for a song and did have to modify the head as it had wrecked valve guides and crushed exhaust valves. I already had a mild cam in there apparently (no clue which one). If you don't mind me asking could you PM me with an idea of what it cost you for Paul to sort yours.

 

Sent you a PM. @Paul Weeding is very reasonable for the work that he does.

 

You can get 200 bhp + from a type 1 with a turbo . Forced induction is the way forward along with EFI and crank fire ignition . Sure you can go big displacement but that's when things start to get expensive . I'm going mini SC , crank fire ignition,and I've just bought a set of EFI throttle bodies of a VFR motorbike for a bargain price of £23 which has the injectors ,TPS ,fuel rail . I was going carbs but the throttle bodies are sexily well made and using a lambda sensor will self tune

 

2056 web86b your 44's vintage speed and your good to go

 

So for this I can keep valve sizes, stock crank and rods and just get a warmer cam?

You can do what you like. For now I'm just going to use the stock box (3 rib) and for the time being will also be restricted to the smaller flywheel and therefore clutch, too.

That wouldn't be so bad if I got that close. I'd rather be close than miles away. I know there is also the driver skill which makes a big difference and I've never done it before. Thinking about just taking what I've got and do a RWYB day at Santa Pod to give me a target improvement

Sounds too technical to me. I've built loads of engines now and I still get confused by timing!!!!

I think that's bang in what had been suggested last time though i'm sure that web grind was NLA?

 

One of these?

I have loads you can have without spending money.

 

Loads of scrap heap turbo built around ,it's only as technical as you want to make it

 

Take that as a no then.


Pathetic.