I bought some Viton O rings (brown ones) from Stateside at Dubfreeze to redo mine as they are leaking pretty badly (again). There been plenty of rap on these over the years and regardless of what anyone says to do, no matter how clean I do the job or carefull I am they dont last long defore theres a drip from at least one of them. I was advised not to use any selant of any kind (again) but to put two to three turns of PTFE tape on the PRT seal groove before putting the o ringonto the tube and then to use a silicon grease to lubricate when putting them in. Will probably give this a go but anyone else got a view on this. Partcularly the use of PTFE tape!
Don't put anything at all on them, if they keep leaking then the sealing faces are not clean enough, the viton rings only need to go on the head side. I have fitted lots and never had one leak again yet, check for burrs etc on the sealing faces dents in the push rod tubes and cutting the seals as they go in
I find that hard to believe. Ive replaced quite afew over the years. The last time I did these all was immaculately clean, honest! they leaked! PR tubes are like new!
One tip is to get a pot of oil to dunk the end of the push rod tube into so the seal and tube are well piled to prevent cutting the seals, the pop in very easily that way
Pass dude.. how do you clean the surfaces? I use a rotary brush in my die grinder... cleans all the PO attempts to seal the tubes with various silicons!! I am going to be making a prototype push rod tube at some point... something that'll hopefully solve the random leaking issue!!
I like the sound of that. Tbh last time but one I did it It was the first time they had been done since it was "remaufactured" (Vege) I couldnt have got it cleaner tbh as it was almost a wipe clean job and then last time (horror of horrors) I used some hylomar on it so that will need a good clean. Its quite therputic lying there with s election of rags. Might use some petrol or spirit as its nonhardening stuff (supposedly) Half tempted to do it this time and if it all goes Pete tong again I'l drive it up there
Problem with hylomar is that it will dry out as the heads heat cycle... I do use a good quality engine assembly lube on mine, so it might be that it's not so easy to run off... might make it seal a little better... but I am only guessing!!
Reading this as I have new tubes and seals to try and resolve my leaks......so it's tubes in good nick..check, good quality seals..check, shiny clean engine...check....now is it engine oil or some sort of silicone lubricant I need to get them to slide in nicely.....would love to stop the leaking and smoking !! If its lubricant, can I have a name ( and I'm pretty sure it's not called KY !! )
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torco-MPZ...le_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item43a9c48445 nice small tube should do the job nicely
have I seen somewhere spring loaded pushed tubes..you take the push rods out. cut the old tubes in half to remove and fit the spring loaded tubes with new seals....I'm sure I saw it in Camper an Bus...just wondered.
Cheers...May as well ask the question here...it's like answers you want to know but we're to embarrassed to ask..ha ha.
Just a quick read through, may have missed it, but the tubes on a 1600 need to be extended a bit before you put them back on, so they seal down nice when the head is retightened. On my 1700 '73 I've used a touch of sealer on the contact edge of the rubber seal, and on one that seems to fit loose I've used a thin wafer from an old seal, in behind the new one to take up space between the new one and the wrinkle in the tube. May help !
Probably because type 4 are that easy to do ,I have a set a blue adjustable tubes [for 1600] ,you just screw to extend very simple just in case the odd one leaks.. ptf tape is only good when on a thread etc..
Dipped mine in oil, so they slip in nice and easy, as the actress said to the bishop, wiped any excess oil of and no leaks so far, I think if you put them in dry they twist and and don't sit proper,, Steve
