type 4 first engine new build, first start!!!

hi lads. i put sae 30 oil in my new type 4 build today and began to crank it over with no plugs in. I want to establish oil pressure prior to firing it up. i filled with 3.5 l of oil and turned engine over. i made a make shift oil pressure light with a bulb holder from batt + to holder from neg of bulb holder to press switch and engine earthed to batt neg. im cranking over for quote some time, albeit not most powerful battery but cant get oil pressure light to go out.

i removed what wasempty oil filter and it is virtually full with oil but still light is on. i dont wan to keep cranking as engine stood for a while prior to cranking (month or so) and im concerned ive taken all assembly lube of new cam lobes.

what am i doing wrong, i am now way starting this without good oil pressure first.....any advice or help please. I AM NOT letting myself ***** this up! shall i remove rocker gear to crank for as long as it takes.

i have a pressure gauge in bus i could make a temp connection too to see what im getting.

please advise, a little anxious about this now after todays efforts

cheers

 

Did you prime the pump ?

 

@lhu1281 oil filter was empty, now full

@Freakytate remove the oil pressure switch and crank the engine... if oil comes out of the switch hole, then the switch is dodgy!!

 

switch was fine before removal. i put vasalene petroleum jelly in pump. it must be pumping as filter full now. but my make shift oil light is still on. can i feed oil back down oil pressure switch and gauge line?

adviseable to remove rockers, dont want to ruin my new web cam

 

paul. il connect my pressure gauge but not expecting to see owt on just cranking over on gauge

also battery to bulb positive, bulb negative to switch, engine earthed to battery neg. light go out when pressure established yeah??

 

That's correct. Even cranking on the starter should make it go out after a while.

 

hmm. i may drop rockers off so as not to score my lobes if the are dry. i want this build to be right first time, cheers lads, get no answers off vzi at moment!!

 

If the oil filter is full and if oil comes out of the pressure switch hole when you crank then you have something wrong.

Pressure relief valves stuck or forgotten ?
Oil pump only just working wrong gasket on top cover ? Wrong pump not properly engaging ?
Check everything related to oil on the outside that you can get at .. then ..
If oil is not pouring out of the engine it sounds like it is leaking somewhere inside.

 

Hold up now. If I remove my oil pressure line to pressure switch and sender for gauge then surely im expecting oil to be coming through there, squirting or a pouring fasion im not sure.

Im under the impression The pump wouldnt engage or bolt to engine if it wasnt engaged ti cam and then wouldn't fill my filter?

Can I remove pressure relief valve to get pressure then re ibstall it?

Also need some good wwwmph in my battery.

 

Just remove the pressure switch dude... All it'll take is a quick crank to establish if the switch has failed...

If there is no oil, then you can broaden your search!!

One thing at a time

 

What he said ^^^^€.
One thing at a time.

 

Will do. Thought could be air lock or similar in that line. I have a pipe, switch not straight to case as I got pressure gauge swnder too. Ta. Let you know how get on later

 

Sorted removed rockers, span engine on starter to pump all oil to fill filter, oil cooler etc and got pressure. Pleased to say least. Its moving on steadily now. cheers lads

 

hi, right now ive sorted my oil pressure issues i wanted to fire up today but booom no spark!!

i have original t25 ignition module and dual vac dizzy.

so i connected ignition to coil (term 15) and green wire from ignition unit to opposite side of coil (term 1). i had one black wire connector left in same loom as green wire from ignition module, goes to +ve term 15 ignition side of coil yeah? got nothing at all. was fine when i dissasembled it. got annoyed and wanted to talk about it.

its one of those things i thought you cant really connect wrong as you have 12v both sides of coil in certain conditions.

one thing i noticed was if i removed earth spade off dizzy it arced somewhat?

also i can here a noise like something energising in dizzy sometimes when ignition is applied to coil.

i also had a good belt off coil at some point so that was somewhat promising, i thought

is it normal for module to get warm also? i guessed so as it lives on an aluminium heat sink.

how can i test my ignition module and dizzy pickup guys? got fed up today and was looking forward to getting it up and running.

 

Doesn't the ignition feed go to the TCI, then there is a 12v feed from the TCI to the coil?

 

Whatever you have in the dissy for points is either dissy points adjusted closed or you have fried an electronic module.

Black to one side of coil is ignition switched 12 volts. Green wire to distributor goes to other coil terminal where the points or ignition module shorts it to ground.
As the distributor turns the ground connection breaks and the voltage builds up on the coil.

Worst thing is electronic modules go red wire on module to black on coil and black on module to where green would have gone on the coil.
Eventually everybody forgets and it costs £30-£70 a go.
You must take off the condensor if you have an electronic module.

 

no i dont have condensor. its fully electronic from a t25. how could i fry the amplifier? is there a procedure for testing these things?

 

In a T25 you can't plug the box into the distributor wrong, so presume it's the leads from the box to coil amiss? There must be a wiring diagram on the net somewhere...

 

^^ like i thought. there one direction plugs. i have black to positive ignition switched side of coil and green to other side of coil. plug into dizzy and earth onto dizzy chassis where it clamps to case. cant really be wrong i thought but no spark.

i want to check hall sensor output but dont know terminal connections

 

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php

All the way to the bottom... there is a section that covers T25 (Vanagon) wiring