..exactly this..can’t explain it either but I did read somewhere that type 4s tend to have some building up pressure especially after long sit..it seems to build up oil pressure a bit quicker on mine too.. Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
I tried 10-30 in mine and it was worryingly slow, but went back to 15-40 and it's almost instant. Same brand of oil. Millers pistoneeze. I still can't conceive how the filter could drain back.
..yeah kind of mystery innit..I always use 15/40 apart from once years ago I used 20/50 and...well let’s stop this oil conversation before it all starts again...but honestly in my case, the oil light seems to go off a bit quicker now and I experimented it a couple of times and remember once I decided to change oil/filter with no valve for the one with it, much sooner..I no it doesn’t make sense does it Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
..please all of you guys with type 4s..when you get your oil/filters (with anti drains) changed let us no how it goes in your case..think it may be interesting experience Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
That, is not good. Not good at all. I've still got 20psi hot idle pressure. Could be your sender of course, hopefully.
I'll keep an eye on it. From memory I've got tickover on about 800 rpm. I'll compare with the gauge next run.
I’m dropping to 10psi on the gauge hot idle but to be honest I don’t think the sender/gauge combo are all that accurate. I’ve got a Durite gauge which is often used on boats. I tend to use it as an indicator rather than a gauge. The warning light has never flickered on hot idle so I don’t worry
I seem to remember reading 7psi for the light, so 10 psi on idle would sound about right. I haven't driven mine enough to get used to any readings yet. After the petrol siphoning into the engine incident I drained it, filled it and ran it before draining it again. New filter and oil and I've done 12 miles so all a bit new.
Been using the anti drain filters on and off, never really noticed much difference just get whats chepest, only on for3000 miles so both busses get a couple or three a year at the moment. The last rebuild for the dokka seems to have lower pressure than the tintops engine, that hot idles around 1 bar vs 2 in the tintop, never get the warning light though so not going to start worrying yet. Get up to 4 to 5 on cold start , drops to 3 driving hot. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
..you could up your idle a bit depends whats it set at at the moment?..but if you at around 900 then and it still goes on then yeah its a bit worrying.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Too late for the bearings. Cold idle should be close to the maximum pressure you will see. After 12 miles even in one go you shouldnt be running hot enough for the light to come on ever.. more like 20 psi not 10psi BTW those filters on that link are now over £28 each...
Before the fuel in engine happened I'd done about 5 local trips and hadn't noticed the light come on. I did one engine flush with new oil but maybe some fuel is left in there? I only ran it for a few mins with the new oil and then replaced it again. When you say too late for the bearings, what do you mean?
First (cheap and easy) things first. I wouldn't write off your bearings just yet. If you want to check your electrical sender/gauge, you could rig up a temporary manual gauge to run in parallel.
When someone's van in my workshop filled (and overflowed all over the floor) with fuel overnight I emptied it out, left it a few days sans plugs/drain and anything else that would aid evaporation, refilled with oil just the once, turned on the starter for a few minutes before replacing plugs and it was fine.
