Two seater, targa topped bus restoration (914)

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by mcswiggs, Feb 18, 2018.

  1. send them of for a full clean, rebuild and test.

    about 70 quid for all 4 and the turn around time is about 2 days
    mcswiggs, Razzyh and 77 Westy like this.
  2. mcswiggs and Razzyh like this.
  3. I have since found out mine was a 76 MY 2.0
    The pump is still fitted and I’m not going to use it so if any use it’s yours ..
    paradox and Razzyh like this.
  4. Thanks for the recommendations, appreciated. I think getting all the injectors checked and rebuilt is the way to go so will use one of them - just need to close out my current lines of enquiry re a replacement.
    Thanks for the offer of a pump (snigger), appreciated as ever. The old pumps seem a point of weakness at the best of times so unless I have a particularly bad attack of ocd I’ll try to make the new one work, but thanks again.

    Meanwhile not much tinkering done this weekend (spent half my time bailing out an inch of water from the old MX5 - it’s got into the ECU in the foot well and now it’s not running right, but that’s another story).
    But did have time to clean up and check the Manifold Pressure Sensor. The electrics are within tolerance and the bellows hold a vacuum so should be ok, which is a relief because they are delicate and working ones are pricey and, well, I fumbled and dropped mine on the floor.
    The decel valve works fine and begins to open at 17 inHg vacuum as it should.

    Meanwhile I’m wondering what to do about the fuel lines. These appear to be the original and have turned brittle of course.

    F8E4ADF6-D19F-4876-BD19-99FFC15B944B.jpeg There are two pipes (the clear but yellowed ones) that run from the tank at the front, different diameters, for the feed and return from the pump and pressure valves. The design seemed to change every year as they tried to combat an inherent vapour lock problem. Replacement plastic tubes would be cheapest but don’t seem easy to connect to the rubber hoses. Might take a look at how it’s done on injection Beetles.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
  5. With the engine about done (pending Mr Injector to reopen after 6 weeks’ sabbatical to sort my leaking injector) it’s time to take a look at the gearbox. There’s the usual oil/mud mix baked on to the south side of nearly every seal and gasket, and the box is a complete unknown quantity other than having 70k on the clock and a reasonable action when shifted (despite the seized engine).
    So after a good scrub and clean up, I’ve replaced the main shaft seal, pinion seals, speedo shaft seal, selector shaft seal, diff cover seal and the end case gasket. Whilst I was in there I had a good look for evidence of swarf and filings (none to speak of) and dog tooth, synchro, bearing and gear wear (again nothing to warrant stripping further) so I’ve bolted all back together and crossed my fingers that his one bucks the trend and doesn’t leak like a sieve and will be good for a few more 10k of miles. Just need to get the transmission oil off the drive tarmac again. 8631545F-44EC-49EF-B289-1C58948F2ACC.jpeg 2721AB3F-3F80-4F6E-9710-A19C9BBCE21C.jpeg 99F5A9CC-61C0-485F-926B-A77718CF5C88.jpeg CBDB0257-8556-4235-AD5B-71998FD80D57.jpeg
    And, no, I'm not going to paint it gold.
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019
    nicktuft, Razzyh, rob.e and 4 others like this.
  6. In the very early 70s a TR6 cost £1334 whilst a 914 could be yours for £2261. Having finally re-assembled the wiring harnesses and hoses I now know where the money went....
    The distributor has both vacuum advance and retard but I thought there was something wrong in that port for the retard was blanked off on the throttle body. On all the other cars I’ve seen photos of there should be a fitting on that little boss on the right side of the casting.
    After lots of head scratching and staring at Google photos I discovered that the connection was dropped for the 74 model and the retard was left open to atmosphere- whodda thunk it.

    Meanwhile after waiting six weeks for Mr Injector to reopen after a prolonged Christmas break they say they can’t fix an injector if it’s leaking from the plastic cap to the body. Leaves me with something of a problem to find a replacement. If anyone has any ideas I’ll be very pleased to hear them....! EEE76E7C-7C1B-47E4-BCE8-70B38AC5CA88.jpeg
    nicktuft and 77 Westy like this.
  7. mcswiggs likes this.
  8. Yep, bitten the bullet and ordered one plus a spare.

    Meanwhile - @lhu1281 any tips on how you made your fuel lines please? I can’t find 8mm SS tube longer than 1375mm which doesn’t seem long enough, will a cheapo £8.50 pipe bender be man enough and what did you solder on to make the flanges?


  9. I acquired I think a 6 metre length ,
    8mm x6mm 316L seamless tube ..

    I don’t have a swage tool so the easiest way for me was to silver solder an olive on each end ...took 10 minutes to make and stick on ..

    The tube is quite easy to bend and I just used a cheapo copper tube bender ..

    I cut tube with a copper pipe cutter although it probably shagged it .

    I put the slight tank end bend in first and fed length up tunnel marked engine end , withdrew and bent etc then pulled entire length silver soldered olives on and fitted ... fairly easy , hardest part was reinstalling the big rubber grommet tank end ....





    If you want to loose a couple ok KG

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    nicktuft, mcswiggs and 77 Westy like this.
  10. Excellent job, thank you. I’ll give it a go if I can find some lengths long enough.
    Very sexy looking calliper too. Yours is going to be a complete pocket rocket!
  11. I will try to measure the fuel lines to ascertain if it was indeed a 6 metre length .....
    I had the rear calipers refurbished and for not much more money bought the wilwood fronts ...
    mcswiggs likes this.
  12. Thanks for that. Have just ordered a 6m length (postage is extortionate after 2m, so what the hell). Giving up on how to make an inset bubble flare so will copy your olive soldering method - cheers!
  13. Surely you can buy a tool cheap enough to do that?
    mcswiggs likes this.
  14. I couldn’t find one and my way was free ...just parted off 4 bits of 10x8 tube
    mcswiggs likes this.
  15. The only tool I could find after rather more time spent searching than I should have, was over $2oo and wasn’t to be used on stainless steel... I gave up. Will sweat on some brass olives I think.
  16. I will happily send you some stainless ones and a bit of silver solder if you want .....
    mcswiggs likes this.
  17. Ah - that’s really kind of you but I’ve just gone and ordered all the requisite bits from fleabay!
  18. mcswiggs and theBusmonkey like this.
  19. Yes it’s that sort of thing, but those tools put the flange right at the end and I was wanting the bubble to be up the pipe a bit so I can get the rubber fuel pipe over it. This jobbie does it.....

    ...but at $300 it’s not going to be added to my collection of used-once tools!
    Oh - and it says don’t use on stainless steel in the small print...
    Razzyh likes this.
  20. Now with the fuel tank out of the ‘front boot’ it’s a good time to remove 40 years of muck and wildlife from between the bulkheads.
    I know it was home to a good number of wasps, but could it have had termites too?
    All cleaned up nicely. Probably give what can’t be seen a coat of wax to protect it.
    Now back to those pesky fuel lines.
    @lhu1281 - what did you use as a reducer from the bigger 10mm flow outlet on the tank to join to the rubber pipe, please?

Share This Page