Myself and others i`ve had a few PM`s asking what he`s all about and i honestly don`t know ... Too many little pills `back in the day` maybe ??
Well, don't! Some diligent German engineer in the 1930s sat down and calculated the expansion rates of magnesium alloy and a steel crank, and worked out the acceptable range for endfloat. Just set it to that! It's not Squeezy Geezy, is it, the Crankcase Massacre-er of Youtube?
I had a similar problem when building mine, some people areore adept at picking things up then others, I've never worked with these tolerances so was alien to me, what maybe usefull is how many times the dial indicator passes 0 and where it should stop, if may be easier to explain like that , I did mine but would not be confident enough to advise others as it was my 1st build
Your 0.7 is fine. Folk are just commenting that it's right at the bottom of the range, and somewhere in the middle would likely be better. But you can run with it.
Thanks. I was just thinking, in my fragile, child like mind, that the further away from the maximum and the closest to the minimum, would be better, if you see what I mean…
I put it and 0.10 last time, went for a drive, came back and it had gone to 0.19. So out by some, with a clunk when I pulled the pulley. That’s why aim doing it again.Am I using a different gauge to anyone else? Are the numbers different?
Understandable, but given that leaving a bit of free play prevents the whole thing locking up when everything gets hot and expands, nowt wrong with adding a little bit more for luck. But again, VW say your 0.7 is fine, so it's fine
0.07mm please, gentlemen. So small you cant feel it and you barely hear it, and the reading will change by seven little markings on the dial indicator that you are using, and as you showed. I ran an engine for 27000 miles with 0.15mm (exactly the same as the valve gaps .. ) because I couldnt be bothered to wait for the delivery of shims. It didnt develop more end float until I left the flywheel nut loose. Then it was 2.50mm.
No explanation for that. Metric dial gauges are commonly in 0.01mm steps (about 0.4 of a thou in inches - 4 tenths), as are metric micrometers, so your gauge is fine.
It’s a thing I rarely use, in my lifetime. But ask me how to do a apple pie felling cut on a 200foot tree…
A race engine is a different lump to a street engine. I just paid extra on my rebuild to get it working properly again
If you want something good to watch on the YouTube - I'm trying to wean you off end float videos - you should watch Andrew Camarata on YouTube. He does heavy-duty landscaping in (I think) upstate NY. Opening up miles and miles of...nothing. His preferred method of tree-felling is just to shove them over with an excavator. They're only scrappy pines that grow like weeds anyway. Recommended
The thing with the internet is you can find any answer you want to a question . As an engineer I use a DTI daily . The Bentley manual is fairly good for engine rebuilds
I don’t intent to make a million of them. This is pure necessity. I can’t afford a garage to do it. Otherwise, I may as well put it in the ‘Sat rotting away on driveways’ thread. It’s just a toy, but tbh, it’s not worth selling, unless I do a load of work on it to get a better price,which again, I can’t afford to get someone else to do,as I have no ‘disposable income’, like quite a few ‘classic vehicle owners’, seem to have, if you see what I mean.
