This is another favourite YouTube channel I like to watch, purely for the Wild Camping aspect of it. I also have exactly the same tent…
She'll be in for it if the Youth Hostel warden catches her with no draws on. Where's her sheet sleeping bag?
I'm just home from a weekend away in the Beaujolais region and the Saône river valley and I thought this engine would be sorted and running by now. Instead it's a story of a confused decimal point, listening to blokes that should be ashamed of themselves and watching vids of people that have half a clue telling other people with no clue what to do. What happened to common sense, reading manuals, using specifications, looking at how things are assembled and just doing what should be done to do it right? These engines as as simple as you can get, engage brain and think about what you are doing and what you are trying to achieve. Stop listening to mates in the pub. And as for the 80 year old Porsche racing engine bodger, words fail me.
Tbh, Barry’s manual dosnt cover it. It just says to replace the 3 shims. If it does give tolerances for it, I couldn’t see it in there. Perhaps you could point them out for me please?. I don’t have any other manuals and rely on info from here.
I'm just going out but I'll find it later – isn't it too late if your Porsche bloke has already set it up? And get the Bentley manual, it's online somewhere.
Also, I would have loved to have it up and running, but I’m still waiting on a rear crank seal from JK to turn up. I’m hoping it will be here later today. I’m sure if I had all the parts here before I started it, it would be back on the road, as yesterday would have been a good day to put the engine back in. I also have to get a M10 helicoil kit to re do the thread for the moustache bar mount, as that has got messed up. But like I say. It’s only a toy to me.
I looked at a Haynes manual but it's for the 1700/1800/2.0l Type 4 engine so not much help for you, but the end-float limits are in the engine section under specifications, crankshaft and main bearings. It's the section of the book you would, or should, have used when you checked the bearings, pistons, ring side clearances, ring gaps, etc. The end-float tolerance is the same for a Type 4 as it is for a Type 1: 0.07mm to 0.15mm, note where the decimal point is. I always set mine around mid point, 0.07mm is too tight IMHO – I've just checked the build sheet and the 2,316cc is 0.1mm.
Thanks. Driving around today, in between work, it all sort of sunk in, and something in my head clicked into place. I understand it now. I guess that’s just how it happens for some people. I suppose if you were to put all this thread into spoken word, it would have just been a five min conversation, and I would have got it all sooner, if you see what I mean. I’ve never had anyone to show me stuff… always had to work it out on my own. Thanks all.
With tolerances think of one end being nearly too tight and the opposite end being nearly to loose so in the middle is the sweet spot. Of course if it’s within the manufacturer’s tolerance even if it’s at one extreme or the other it’s fine. Aiming for the middle is just one extra touch to do things better
As I said ' engage brain and think about what you are doing and what you are trying to achieve.' It really isn't difficult.
